tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38528547259440399732024-02-08T12:18:40.616+07:00curledGabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comBlogger261125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-19626125380633194572014-10-01T17:05:00.001+07:002014-10-02T13:11:44.411+07:00TALKING POINT | The Rise of the Street<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>A different point of view about using street as design inspiration.</i></span></h3>
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What comes to your mind when the word "street" is uttered? For me, who resides in the crowded, collapsing capital called Jakarta, traffic, dust, and endless constructions are the top three answers. Different take on the "street" will surely come out from the blessed groups whose view includes the Eiffel, the Empire State Building or the Brandenburg Gate. Street, for them, might spark inspiration, raw energy and stylish crowd hanging out in hip places. Put a photographer in that spot, and you will get stream of invigorating street style shots, capturing real people dress in an effortless chic manner ready to be snapped any time and still look cool. This particular understanding of "street" then brings title of "high street" to Zara, Topshop and those alike, in a way entitling them to claim the style of the street as rightfully theirs.</div>
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I have vague idea of which one comes first: whether the high street chains produce accessible clothes and gain profits, which lures the high-end designers to draw elements of the "street" for their own collections, or whether the designers inspire the high-street brands to adopt their design at a more affordable price range. In both cases, the street is much praised, and its influence transpires to all layers of fashion kingdom. Sneakers, backpacks, denim, bomber jackets, slouch dresses, and more - almost everything on the runway can be called "street," and here we see how street transforms from the roads you walk on into an adjective in the fashion universe. Street equals to laid back, slightly rebellious, oftentimes wild. Street is young and sporty. Street is new, more commercial, more accessible. The rise of the street is even further escalated by the couture fashion houses: Dior introduces sneakers in the spring '14 couture collection and Chanel brings "street protesters" (a.k.a. white-dominated models screaming feminism manifesto) to its spring/summer '15 runway. </div>
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Reflecting back to the streets of Jakarta, or even the streets of Berlin (this I can testify for I have physically been there), the spirit of the real street has definitely lost its meaning in fashion. On the street people are struggling to survive, thumping the ground to make their way to work. Teenagers who hang out on the streets are no longer revolutionists, they simply have nowhere to go or they just don't have money to go anywhere. Street, at the same time, is a familiar pathway that can lead you to home. But to cite street as an inspiration for glamorous pieces being appropriated for daily wear (cue: Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent) is taking advantage of a struggling place. Anything but street, I beg you, a word to describe your clothes and what is currently in trend. </div>
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P.S. <a href="http://style.com/">Style.com</a> has been re-designed and it includes "street" as the menu now. I am an opposition in this case, although Tommy Ton's street style photos are always the ones I impatiently click during fashion week.</div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">image: style.com</span></i></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-31416578791145467882014-07-01T15:06:00.000+07:002014-07-01T15:16:42.975+07:00ON RADAR | The Most Fashionable Couple in Town (part 2)<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Lovebirds during fashion week have been my addiction of late. Because, who can resist some good loving and good style?</i></span></h3>
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<span lang="EN-GB">There are
two reasons we should envy models. One, they are good-looking. Two, they complement
that beautiful imperfection of theirs (I vehemently believe that imperfection
actually makes you even more attractive) when they consciously couple with
another model. Jimmy Q—worry not if you are not familiar with the name—the
model who is part of the tattoo troop is now happily holding hands (and
kissing, and hugging, and doing all those things that make others envious) with
Leia Contois, another model whose body is also beautifully emblazoned with ink.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB">Looking at
the two I cannot help but thinking about other fashion couples. They obviously
dress well, but most importantly, they are aware of their cool factor and
proudly show it. Jimmy Q and Leia Contois saunter the </span>men’s fashion week in style-coordinated clothes
and do not hesitate in posing for the street-style photographers. In another
fashion week, there are <a href="http://gabrielayosefina.blogspot.com/2013/12/on-radar-fashion-coupling.html#.U7Jt_5SSztI" target="_blank">Justin O’Shea and Veronika Heilbrunner</a> bringing their
couple’s style A-game to the street. I then wonder what the September hectic
weeks will present us with. More fashion couples, anyone? <o:p></o:p></div>
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P.S. the first post about fashion couple is <a href="http://gabrielayosefina.blogspot.com/2013/12/on-radar-fashion-coupling.html#.U7Jt_5SSztI" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<i>images: style.com, streetfsn.blogspot.com</i></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-24021447790945970332014-06-02T22:41:00.001+07:002014-06-09T22:22:06.883+07:00ON RADAR | Made in Indonesia<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;">A case of irony: Luxury fashion houses boast the exotic appeal of made-in-Indonesia products while the locals are on the hunt of the next (insert prominent designers' name here).</i></h3>
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I procrastinate a lot. And I think my procrastination really mounts while <strike>writing</strike> delaying this post. Perhaps that is because my heart slightly sank every time I encounter really fresh, immaculately designed pieces that are crafted from Indonesian materials, but not produced by Indonesians. A French fashion brand Maiyet, as an example, commits to support Indonesian batik artisans and reworks the fabric into beautiful dresses for their spring 2013 collection. They employ sustainable systems, managing various sources of original craftsmen to produce batches of high quality materials without neglecting their quality of life. Such practice is definitely positive, and responded positively, too as justified by the pricey tag they put on the finished products. Analysing it further, however, the success of Maiyet in sourcing their material from (mostly) developing countries arises a question: Who really gets the benefit here?<br />
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Dries Van Noten applies batik for the spring/summer 2010 collection. John Hardy establishes a workshop in Bali and has its business soaring across the globe. Vianel releases a card case made of Indonesian ring lizard's skin. Shall Indonesians be proud or worried? With the cost of doing business and acquiring natural resources is relatively low here, I wonder how the supply chain of those fashion products goes. On one hand I am excited that several elements from my country are highly appreciated (thus the price), but on the other hand I still sense the deteriorating condition of people being in the ground zero (places where those companies source their materials). I am definitely in no place to judge since some of the aforementioned companies claim to have a sustainable operation in this country, but how far can one monetise what supposedly belongs to the nation?<br />
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Simultaneously, we have mushrooming growth of local fashion industry here; there is undoubtedly a growing number of local business pushing forward an empowerment of other local sources. But awareness of those products remain low. Instead, people try to find references to the "international" fashion. The media echoes brilliance of local designers with certain fashion powerhouses as benchmarks. Just like the analogy of chicken and egg, there are also numerous designs that recall to "high fashion" pieces. The adoption of aesthetics even goes as far as reworking the traditional clothes into series of hopeful "avant-garde" pieces. So which triggering which?<br />
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Those three paragraphs with three question marks by the end of them should really signal something to you. Because really, the whole "made-in-Indonesia" conundrum is not an easy one to solve. What we can perhaps do, as detached watchdogs or mere consumers, is knowing exactly where we spend our money on. Be it something locally produced or internationally branded, make sure you pick the right side.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Image is from Maiyet.</span><br />
<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-37454499322589591102014-04-07T15:48:00.000+07:002014-10-02T13:14:28.215+07:00THOUGHTS | The Internet’s Effect on Fashion<h3>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-weight: normal;"><i>While
internet offers uncountable options, fashion is
experiencing a uniformity of taste.</i></span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-hYeR1trmEZ51o1xsxRkjMwSYSTRn-lwFLIgGRUZDjvzc2W1CKmuAlVy5tbDcHrwiYrS3TXFsNTBxSwlTHl3aCgnRGgfDAz7D6HJXDApMSYxYV07d2QGz6WI_MZl5gH9Gm8KbmWki0M/s1600/tumblr_mvqwu2LuDH1r5n9x4o1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-hYeR1trmEZ51o1xsxRkjMwSYSTRn-lwFLIgGRUZDjvzc2W1CKmuAlVy5tbDcHrwiYrS3TXFsNTBxSwlTHl3aCgnRGgfDAz7D6HJXDApMSYxYV07d2QGz6WI_MZl5gH9Gm8KbmWki0M/s1600/tumblr_mvqwu2LuDH1r5n9x4o1_500.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Internet
has liberated fashion in a way that fashion cannot even liberate itself. This
very moment is the time when fashion bloggers are applauded for their style
mastery, when #ootd (stands for outfit of the day) hashtag will guarantee more
likes than book-related photos in Instagram and when fashion week has gradually
lost its relevance. Take an example from how easy it is for people to tune in
style.com and other websites to see the latest collection looks and even
live-stream the runway shows.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">If we are
to list internet influences on liberating fashion, a logical path we are
supposed to find is a more diverse fashion scene, where people get a platform
to express their individualities and brands are able to engage the consumers
personally. And at a glimpse, that is indeed what happens. Most notably marked
with the birth of fashion bloggers and online shopping behavior, fashion
appears to let go of its exclusivity factor and comes out as a royalty ready to
mingle. (disclosure: as a matter of fact, as I’m writing this piece, I cannot
keep my fingers from changing tabs to several blogs) Internet has become such a
warmhearted playground for those whose wardrobe is too outrageous or those who
want to channel their “creativity” outside the real life. The world wide web with its
gargantuan space thus welcomes innumerable takes on fashion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">But,
really, is that what happens?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Yes,
bloggers get the chance to show off their individual style, but are their
styles any different? Counting how many similar products the bloggers have can
tell you better. Yes, we all can upload our “outfit of the day,” but are our
outfits strikingly different? Your Instagram filter can perhaps illustrate
better. <b>This so-called democracy of fashion, it turns out, brings an anonymity
and uniformity of taste. </b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">What I’d
like to address with "boringness" in fashion and style accounts to our
unhappiness to the innumerable choices. Or at least, that is what the internet
entities think we feel. Thus every day we are offered chances to “curate” what
we see through who we’re following on social media channels, which websites we
are subscribed to, and even we can handpick whose feeds we will be presented
with upon signing in to Facebook. With these whole additional and more diverse
options, people start to filter and choose who they want to be exposed with.
And by the end of the day, once you read or view the same thing on a regular
basis, you become <i>that</i> thing.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After all,
maybe uniformity in fashion isn’t entirely dangerous so the designers can
predict better what each customer likes. And to us? The uniformity can bring in more likes for our #ootd
posts because we can easily predict what kind of photo the majority likes. Henceforth, I’d like to welcome you to the future of online fashion. The future that
believes in “minimalism” and “nineties” as evident on the latest runway of a
lot of major fashion houses, the future that encourages commercialism but
forgets to celebrate diversity. <b>The future that casts out your individual style
statement.</b> The future you may not belong to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: x-small;">image is from tumblr</span></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-63515193525213632832014-03-29T09:00:00.000+07:002014-03-29T09:00:01.845+07:00SATURDAY REMIX | Beautiful Places<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Forget work and start enjoying life.</i></span></h3>
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I find myself longing for a light, airy, spacious home of my own. It will be the place where I am fully in my skin, comfortable and honest. And these imageries are part of that longing--an imagination now, a reality later. Until then, I am keeping my fingers crossed and at the same time, typing to earn that dream. Happy weekend, everyone!</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">images are from <a href="http://www.freundevonfreunden.com/" target="_blank">freunde von freunden</a>, <a href="http://honestlywtf.com/" target="_blank">honestly wtf</a> and <a href="http://www.kinfolk.com/stories/" target="_blank">kinfolk</a></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-58504575049361918092014-03-18T13:32:00.001+07:002014-03-18T13:32:29.755+07:00SOMETHING RAD | The Story of Undercover<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Much hyped, little known. I attempt to uncover Japanese cult fashion brand, Undercover.</i></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Undercover Spring 2004 sending twins down the runway</span></div>
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I initially fancied Jun Takahashi's work, the designer of Undercover, in the middle of a desperate spring/summer 2014 fashion week. Among most highly commercialised, little creativity-infused shows, there was a real gem showing with a bang. Back then I didn't realise that Takahashi is no dark horse in the business (he maybe was, but I was obviously wrong) since his collection appears really fresh, almost untouched by the commercial wisdom that has long disoriented fashion industry. His word play of <a href="http://gabrielayosefina.blogspot.com/2013/09/favourites-just-say-it.html#.UycQe6iSyrk" target="_blank"><span style="color: #990000;">GODS x DOGS, GUNS x SNUG</span></a> and so on reflects much of the creativity and his rebellious side.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fall 2005-2006</span></div>
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Undercover itself came into inception in 1993, but it is in 2002 that the label started showing in Paris. In 2011, Takahashi took a two-year absence after a tsunami and earthquake hit his homeland, Japan. Bringing his Japanese sensibilities on the brand, Takahashi bridges couture-like treatment on board with certain wit and eccentricity no other designer has. On one side his designs remind me of Margiela's and Westwood's but on the other side it feels like a whole different world altogether. "Punk" is how the designer describes the brand--and his personal style. Shredded, deconstructed, subversive pieces are his go-to designs, in a way challenging fashion industry's resonance of everything perfectly polished.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Inside Jun Takahashi's scrapbook (from A Magazine Curated By)</span></div>
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There are several, if not all, collections that have catapulted Undercover to stardom. Takahashi always tickles the senses of the viewers with tantalising fashion shows. They are fascinating and eerie at times, such as the time when the model's lineup consisted of identical twins wearing similar clothes (Spring 2004) or when all models strut the catwalk with masked face (Fall 2006). Takahashi, too, addresses global issues in his collection. Take a look at his Fall 2007 creations in which he adapted NASA technology for the clothes that will stand the harsh change of climate. Even Takahashi can turn American preppy look into certain subversion by covering the models' head with latex (Fall 2008).<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Undercover Fall 2006</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Undercover Fall 2007</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Undercover Fall 2008</span></div>
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Takahashi is also a runner, which is perhaps why he taps into a collaboration with renowned sports brand Nike for several installments. With the name Undercover Gyakusou he works closely with Nike's Apparel Innovation Design Team to explore the latest technology in sportswear. The Japanese designer's collaborative effort also stretches to the world of publishing, in which he guest-edits an issue of A Magazine Curated By, an insider magazine that invites brilliant names in fashion designers to curate an issue. Maison Martin Margiela, Riccardo Tisci and Yohji Yamamoto are among its impressive guest editors.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nike x Undercover Gyakusou</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The designer models his own collection in collaboration with Nike</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">more about Undercover: <a href="http://www.undercoverism.com/">www.undercoverism.com</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">images: <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a>, <a href="http://www.amagazinecuratedby.com/issues/jun-takahashi/" target="_blank">A Magazine Curated By</a>, <a href="http://cotonblanc.tumblr.com/">cotonblanc.tumblr.com</a>, <a href="http://hypebeast.com/">hypebeast.com</a></span></div>
<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-81296649005334489112014-03-14T00:29:00.004+07:002014-03-14T00:29:38.827+07:00ON RADAR | Normcore and Frumpterable<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;">Let's assess the new normal in fashion.</i></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">If wearing black turtleneck and sweater is considered normcore, what about a Chanel sweater?</span></div>
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Comfortable is the new key word in fashion, signaled by one of Cathy Horyn's last piece in NYT titled "<a href="http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/02/06/sign-of-the-times-slave-no-more/" target="_blank">Slave No More</a>" and the elaborate, viral piece regarding "<a href="http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/02/normcore-fashion-trend.html" target="_blank">normcore</a>" penned by Fiona Duncan in The Cut. Then Buzzfeed jumps in the conversation with a new term for dressing in comfortable, loose pieces called "<a href="http://www.buzzfeed.com/jessicaprobus/frumpterable-is-the-new-comfortable" target="_blank">frumpterable</a>". But vivid proofs are not lacking, either. Just take a walk online and you will most likely encounter street style photos of so-called fashionistas in <a href="http://www.style.com/flashxml/2014/trendsshopping/streetstyle/020614_Tommy_Ton_Street_Style_Fall_2014_RTW/images/day23/020714_Tommy_Ton_rtw_Fall_2014_slide_294.jpg" target="_blank">flats</a> and <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=blogger+sneakers&rlz=1C1CHMO_enID552ID552&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=sOohU95fgvOIB5uYgIgJ&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAg&biw=1024&bih=475" target="_blank">sneakers</a>, ditching their painful heels for a slightly understated look. Or you can find a number of fashion shows, Chanel included, clashing sweatpants, oversized coats and sneakers (or sneakers hybrid like Raf Simons' latest invention in Dior) together.<br />
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So what's the deal with comfortable pieces? Aren't they supposed to be worn daily? Aren't all your clothes are comfortable? Otherwise, what is the point of wearing them?<br />
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"Normcore is a desire to be blank. Fundamentally, the way that we thought about it at K-HOLE is that people used to be born into communities and were, sort of, thrust into the world and had to find their own individuality. And I think today, people are born individuals and are trying to find their communities," explains the original "normcore" initiator, the New York-based trend forecasting group. By what it signifies, the understanding of normcore being the fashion that is bland and plain is not entirely correct. Suppose you want to enter a group full of trend-conscious people, and having the principle of normcore in your head, you wish to be able to fit it and thus start to adopting the trend. Nevertheless, the icons of normcore as "appointed" by K-HOLE themselves are Steve Jobs who consistently wears black turtleneck and jeans, Jerry Seinfeld with his far-from-notable outfits, and should I add, the Olsen twins--those who wear monochromatic outfits and look "just like anybody else".<br />
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The weakness in normcore, albeit it reflects how our society longs for a sense of belongingness (by being nothing, that is), is that diversity is minimized. But the truth is that, you cannot easily dismiss your difference just by dressing or acting like anyone else. What about ethnicity, skin color and even personality? Those are what we all acquire from gene and thus become inevitable differentiating factor. In other words, being blank is impossible, and pardon me, stupid. Because people are not supposed to be blank--they are here to encourage and value differences. It is when a social group is able to embrace different kinds of styles and personalities, it can be regarded as a successful group.<br />
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To delve further to the matter, there is frumpterable, a rising trend of wearing simple, basic, perhaps too loose pieces of clothing and not care about it. On one side I see it as personalized, individual take since what simple for one person is not simple for others, and it actually points out to a celebration of anti-everything-changes-every-six-months that releases us from doing unnecessary spending. On the other hand, it feels like a form of neglect--a neglect of good, presentable, flattering style. Although the street style photographs of fashionable packs during fashion week proves otherwise, I still think that this frumpterable thing is not for everybody, especially not if you wish to impress others the very first time they meet you. <br />
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Sensing how fashion starts to become comfortable, and tend to be lazy, is somewhat discouraging. I am not implying that we should opt for flashy items or adopt trend religiously, but rather to consider what works for us. The aim, by the end of the day, is to be able to curate a set of styles in which we can both feel comfortable and beautiful. I am not ready to forgo that beautiful part, and I hope you are not, too.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo is from <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-1588482798057485322014-03-10T11:23:00.000+07:002014-03-10T11:23:15.042+07:00HER FLAIR | Franca Sozzani<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Outspoken editor-in-chief is a rare breed these days.</i></span></h3>
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The last time I clicked on "New Post", I was impulsive. It was late night and I was wondering why I cannot get over how bland the fashion week is. The only interesting bite is the street style capture, but it isn't that captivating either. Even after viewing Ghesquiere debut in Louis Vuitton, I still could not shake the feeling of blandness. But that, I suppose, would be another post. </div>
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Lamenting over the death of fashion industry would be a long talk. </div>
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A refreshing point of view I found came from the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, none other than the witty, clever, all-womanly Franca Sozzani, who does not only have an impeccable style and direction but also has an impeccable way of thinking. She runs a routine editor column in the magazine's website www.vogue.it and pens her thoughts every day. I mean, how many editors are doing what she is doing these days? On March 7, she posted <a href="http://www.vogue.it/en/magazine/editor-s-blog/2014/03/march-7th" target="_blank">this</a> and I could not agree more. It is her post-fashion-week thought, how to digest every bits she has witnessed on the runway and what we are supposed to do with it.<br />
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<b>"After over a month of runway shows, presentations, fashion events, within a primarily ‘fashionista’ world, the time has come to think about all we have seen, about the inputs we have received.</b><br />
<b><br />This is the best time because I still haven’t decided what to do for the magazine, how to outline the next issue, and like the French say, I have time to 'prendre du recul', to get a 'global' but more ‘complete’ perspective, with some more detachment.</b><br />
<b><br />You also realize that things you had instinctively liked very much, with a little more aloofness now seem a little ‘overdone’ and less original. You feel as if you were re-assembling a jigsaw and now each piece in in the right place.</b><br />
<b><br />This is the moment you realize that you don’t care what people think and what you read in the press, but with a clearer mind you shape your own opinion on the collections showcased.</b><br />
<b><br />My idea is that people do not care for a too-studied fashion, that is flawless from a shared aesthetic point of view, and maybe flawed from another, less trendy, perspective."</b></div>
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A little overdone and less original, true that those collections somehow fall into the trap of mediocrity. But Sozzani really put it eloquently: that this is the moment we would not care what people think and what we read in the press.<br />
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Read the full post of her thought <a href="http://www.vogue.it/en/magazine/editor-s-blog/2014/03/march-7th" target="_blank">here</a>. Photo is from <a href="http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f137/franca-sozzani-38814-26.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-19814305931526203312014-03-02T22:46:00.003+07:002014-03-03T22:51:41.421+07:00THOUGHTS | 5 Reasons Why Fashion becomes Boring<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>I have seemed to lost the thrills and excitement right when fashion week reaches its height.</i></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Beautiful girl, bored expression always sells</span></div>
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To keep this really straightforward, here are some reasons why I find fashion less interesting these days:<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>1. The repetitive looks highly inspired by Balenciaga during Ghesqui<span style="line-height: 115%;">è</span>re period and Céline during Philo period for the upcoming fall/winter.</b></span> There are too many of them--in all New York, London, Milan and Paris it seems that distinguished aesthetics are now gone and replaced by the needs to sell clothes. Or is it because the designers are basically exposed to similar things thanks to popular websites and social media channels?<br />
*inserting the correct French name takes some effort, you know.<br />
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<b>2. The stagnancy of fashion blogs.</b> When those popular girls (and boys) depart from their chic environment to the "high fashion" territory, they somehow start to produce similar content in their blogs. Not to mention their similar styles and similar activities during fashion week. Plus the inability of the bloggers to produce high quality review, the whole blogging content is really inundated with various phrases that all mean the same: We love it because we are invited.<br />
*There are still few distinctive bloggers who stand out with their wit and smart take on the collection, but the rest of the pack is really frustrating.<br />
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<b>3. Monotonous captures of the "street style personalities" in the so-called leading street style websites.</b> Other than the polished looks on the runway crafted by expert stylists, I pretty much would love to see the pieces on real person. This where the street style photographers are supposed to feed their readers with. But instead of photographing great style regardless of how famous the person is, they consistently take photos of renowned fashion industry insiders. Thus the website appears no different than those of celebrity websites.<br />
*Again, there are several exclusions to this, but I really cannot help but including this disappointing tendency of the street style trend here.<br />
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<b>4. Local designers putting unbelievably high price tag on their clothes.</b> Personally, I would love to buy local designers' clothes because that way, I feel like I have partaken in supporting the local talents. But once they start going gaga on pricing, that would be hard for a lot of people to access their clothes. I am not saying that it should be cheap, but there are times when I find crappy cutting, messy lining or mediocre fabric being priced unfairly high. The local brands serving middle class, in particular, are now labelling themselves as "exclusive" thus creating gap for the people to access them. Regular bazaars bringing a number of local brands together are becoming hit and miss, somehow classifying themselves in the category of "cool" and the rests are simply "not cool."<br />
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<b>5. Snob fashion insiders.</b> This is a long overdue issue, but the stamp given on the people working in the fashion industry is: They are mean. A more important thing to consider is actually: Is it because of the movie "Devil Wears Prada" or because the fashion workers regard brands and positions more than they regard style and aesthetic?<br />
*Exclusion, exclusion, exclusion to several warmhearted fashion people out there.<br />
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I haven't rested my case. But this should be enough for now. I am still waiting fo<span style="font-family: inherit;">r Ghesqui<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">è</span>re upcomi</span>ng Louis Vuitton collection, which is supposed to be fantastic. The beautiful photo is from <a href="http://unculturedmag.tumblr.com/post/75188462292/chiharu-okunugi-by-michael-shwartz-for-dansk" target="_blank">here</a>, used for illustrative purpose only.<br />
<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-67702677415898186872014-02-19T19:20:00.000+07:002014-02-19T21:44:48.635+07:00RUNWAY MASHUP | Lessons in Layering<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">It's the crazy season that is fashion week but all we have to do is to learn some lessons. Lesson number one: layering.</span></i></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTfbRUE3tsjc2Cratt80j27l0PiUwcRM_p_1y9JzAj7h5_65SnBTsNez_ZrfrOovq9EOBNqmn8CqrSmzTAsD6jC4MwuMD3tLq-kP0u7mrEZiAyjbCuYWrKh-wbi7WUgRPSNUgdYHz3wA/s1600/Prabal+Gurung+FW14.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Prabal Gurung</span></div>
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Let's put aside the debate whether bloggers are worthy of front-row seats, or the discussion whether Ghesquière is preserving Marc Jacobs' legacy in Louis Vuitton. They are too complicated. Or not, because these layering lessons I get from the fall/winter shows articulate certain dimension to dressing for the cold. I am thoroughly aware of the resistance to layer for some people, mainly because bulky clothing never looks good on anyone. Not to mention that it takes some skills to layer clothes. In other words, layers can make people uncomfortable.<br />
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In Prabal Gurung, the only show from NYFW I am blown away by (I am pretty sure that this is a new grammatical structure I have so, pardon), the layer is the high note. Thanks to the cold hands of both the designer and the stylist, dresses with origami-like ends are winter-ready when paired with thick knits. The Nepal-inspired collection also introduces us to a new way of wearing knitted shawl: by knotting it (see the pun?).<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXgNTO2qcqE7JTs5ddnDQqu0Iq21tAtpnmrq75N6QO3iSg7t9RIjE093dF2uV9Yyzem2xJLz66H0F32-RlZ7bXtI7GY5XaiMH-tvrbcFU-XTFmK6gP-benIlh8byNohk-mXq7XCa1f8I8/s1600/Topshop+Unique+-+Burberry+Prorsum+FW14.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Burberry Prorsum - Paul Smith</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">A lesson in layering presented by Burberry Prorsum and Paul Smith is lectured in different classroom, though. This is one of my toughest subjects, since mixing pattern apparently requires a Mathematics-equivalent skills. While Burberry still includes ladylike dress in its equation, Paul Smith rules it out completely. Picking a neutral--black in case of Burberry and grey in case of Paul Smith--seems like a salient answer to the game of pattern and colour mixing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPlCjRRan9_wM59LWJnEr8X7Fu0LzAXUexSS14Q3dXAB9yGh3O83YFrdE5TqYBG1iC3k8BDJGcPaQIqWps97LdM04kSj16YJfXTg1IuTK9yCEE0qGKXHC2l4uSfqw9j9W-ctSTEmS-g9w/s1600/Opening+Ceremony+-+Topshop+Unique+FW14.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Opening Ceremony - Topshop Unique</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The last lesson in layering I've got from fashion week so far includes quirky girls in boots, but we obviously digress because the layered sweatshirt is the one that is supposed to steal the limelight. However it is worth to discuss the fact that asymmetric layering in Opening Ceremony seems like a toughened look of Prabal Gurung's and the dress in Topshop Unique appears vaguely similar with Burberry. So what can we infer from this lesson in layering? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">images are all from <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-33813489435468903622014-02-10T00:05:00.003+07:002014-02-10T14:41:33.375+07:00TALKING POINT | Why I No Longer Buy Women Magazines<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>And the internet is just one of the factors.</i></span></h3>
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Maybe from the first glance at this post you would assume that I am about to spill derogatory arguments about how printed magazines should die, how they have lost their power and all, but that is not it. As a matter of fact I am an avid magazine reader--since the adolescent days my mom put me in several teenage magazine subscriber list in no time because she concerned about my ability to grow properly as a female adult--and to be honest with you, I still am an avid magazine reader AND writer. But women magazines are no longer in my purchase list these days--the franchised ones to be exact. Instead, titles like Smith Journal, Delayed Gratification and some random independent magazines are what caught my eyes and brain and heart, despite of their relatively high price. They deliver fresh reporting, oftentimes experimental writing, or in another words: something I cannot obtain from reading big titles like Vogue, Elle or Glamour. This wave of independent publishing might have been seen with one eye by more established publishers, but in fact, their streams of content are to be considered serious counter act in responding to the deteriorating publishing industry these days. But that would be another story.<br />
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The first and foremost reason as to why I stay away from women magazines is actually personal. I do not feel that my voice as a grown woman is well represented by those magazines. The pages are filled with the newest trends and items that are repetitive and correlated with the imagery of lean women, most of the time are the Caucasian ones. Maybe that will not be the case for magazines printed in the US or Europe, but isn't it an irony for local magazine to feature ridiculously massive pages of Caucasian models when their readers are NOT Caucasian? Proceeding further to the other content, I think that the promotion of monotonous lifestyle--working from Monday to Friday, hanging out on weekends, chasing after hot guys, visiting beauty salons, travelling once in a while--has come to the down side of the curve. And to assume that all women are supposed to go through that particular lifestyle is somewhat shallow. That alone is an irony when the magazine itself aims to empower women and celebrate femininity. But who are the women we are talking about here?<br />
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Without a second doubt, internet has also come into mind when proposing argument against purchasing women magazines. Brilliant websites and blogs like Man Repeller and The Cut suffice the criteria as mandatory reading for modern women. Feeds from inspirational public figures and even friends can enrich modern women as much as magazines do. Not to mention the fast pace of reporting culture the internet has brought. Trends change faster, news are available as soon as the event happens and (online) discussions are prompted at no time. This, I think, has caused almost all magazines to feature the similar thing, bring similar discussion to the table and lay out singular point of view when it comes about trends. All trends, anything. Whether it is about fashion, health, finance or work, the voice printed on the paper sounds pretty much the same. I can imagine the editorial meeting starts with something like: "So, what is new this season?" And everybody starts googling, in which they will come up with uniform results. Therefore, presenting something "new" and nothing else should be rethink by the editors, because such way of work brings no additional value to the readers. And when it comes to advertisers, who are we kidding here, the women magazines, or should I say the "highly commercialised" magazine as a whole, have turned into some kind of catalogue. They display whatever the advertisers wish to.<br />
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To close this rather lengthy piece I just want to remind myself. Not all women magazines gradually transform themselves into rubbish. They are, after all, what keep part of the economy going. But to think about how influential media really is, don't we wish for a better quality of magazine to influence women in a more positive way? And until that dawn of women magazine revival comes, I would be happy with my current reading list. What about you?<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">image is from <a href="http://books0977.tumblr.com/post/26035723368/freja-beha-erichsen-reading-with-boots-on-books" target="_blank">here</a></span></div>
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P.S: A new magazine has just been released by Net-A-Porter group, titled Porter. From <a href="http://www.businessoffashion.com/2014/02/porter-magazine-net-a-porter.html" target="_blank">this <u>article</u></a> it sounds promising and all, but I am not ready to spend that much amount of money for a women magazine that comes from a luxury retailer. It claims to adopt "global approach" as part of the editorial voice, quite literally, because the first day it is sold in the US, I visited my local bookstore and found the very same issue.<br />
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<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-55387300322563375112014-02-05T21:33:00.000+07:002014-02-05T21:33:14.801+07:00FAVOURITES | Preppy Pairing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Justifying myself to get a pair of new shoes just because they exist in most pre-fall collections I see is a credible act, right?</i></span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDrim2TjghIAoa5vvNo7MSRSO3xcpHjwPG8Uhyphenhyphen01EeQzBbs21-c_37e9EA6UYJrVnaxwD7Q9wngJR6vmsD9Xv3Ajxl7yVC0ljDiHS_uDETcTwOwJQ9d2SkOl2T2WEWbs6cie9EsWyMhD4/s1600/PhotoGrid_1391441004222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDrim2TjghIAoa5vvNo7MSRSO3xcpHjwPG8Uhyphenhyphen01EeQzBbs21-c_37e9EA6UYJrVnaxwD7Q9wngJR6vmsD9Xv3Ajxl7yVC0ljDiHS_uDETcTwOwJQ9d2SkOl2T2WEWbs6cie9EsWyMhD4/s1600/PhotoGrid_1391441004222.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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I am not going to bother you with an essay explaining why I fit in the criteria of a person who can get one more pair of shoes despite of his/her wardrobe is <strike>overloaded</strike> full with some 20 kinds of them already. Because more importantly, I am frankly enticed by how a pair of manly shaped shoes can change the whole ladylike look--and even elevate it to certain level of cool. The oxford/loafers cover the feet almost entirely, leaving the feet fetish little to imagination (I know I obviously digress here, but you get the idea). The shoes in this case, take away some femininity and inject some attitude to the styling, thus killing the notion of literal sexiness and instead delivering effortless tomboy aura every girl wishes for. Especially in this millenial era, I think we all agree that girls, or women, should I emphasize, are all aiming for that I'm-sexy-in-my-own-way persona, and this could be their answer.</div>
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There is still one problem for me.</div>
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This preppy pairing might not work for someone with ahem, rather large feet like I have. How would you let your calves being exposed and later turned ravenous for attention since they are parts of your body that are seen? But it all boils down to confidence and styling. I consider pairing the shoes with shorter skirt to balance the proportion (I now sound like an ol' magazine fashion writer--wait, I am!) or to go for a monochrome look to even out everything. And before I keep on talking to myself in this blogpost, I'll let you go through several pre-fall inspirations (the season might not arrive yet, but the style is there for us to think about, or adopt) of how to wear these beautiful babies, because possibly, I will get myself a pair.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9YK8SjCi9thKkkwQTrY8lmn6bbGPt75bYBc9IeUS3q6hv0baFKMMQOsONPJzKWAG-0hHM98mVKtbQHQJb1NDRd_6et5mFGtWSYyM_nUyp8YDUzx9qaCBG5UlQqbh6lTckFFRAdCqdJQ/s1600/Atto_004_1366-horz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9YK8SjCi9thKkkwQTrY8lmn6bbGPt75bYBc9IeUS3q6hv0baFKMMQOsONPJzKWAG-0hHM98mVKtbQHQJb1NDRd_6et5mFGtWSYyM_nUyp8YDUzx9qaCBG5UlQqbh6lTckFFRAdCqdJQ/s1600/Atto_004_1366-horz.jpg" height="476" width="640" /></a></div>
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Alto</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdtXQAJg-2_gdA7MCP_ukB7BDcmlWcoFYsxHcT5WYaVmuLCaB0etR1Qw8Nj1ynNUp8g-YX2fdtIvXviROkr7Xzn-ru6yXmRg54ZLGNQEUMpbp4pgsiqfrkv3lGYWfl9JlKObbePK0cSE/s1600/Lanvin_Theory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdtXQAJg-2_gdA7MCP_ukB7BDcmlWcoFYsxHcT5WYaVmuLCaB0etR1Qw8Nj1ynNUp8g-YX2fdtIvXviROkr7Xzn-ru6yXmRg54ZLGNQEUMpbp4pgsiqfrkv3lGYWfl9JlKObbePK0cSE/s1600/Lanvin_Theory.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lanvin - Theory</div>
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Stella McCartney</div>
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Sea - Helmut Lang</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">images are from <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-6944840999538381852014-01-28T17:07:00.002+07:002014-02-05T21:03:59.038+07:00LOVE-WORTHY | Men Vs. Women<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;">On what feels like an endless contemplation of gender boundaries, Rad Hourani sounds off his moves in a series of photographic comparison in collaboration with SSENSE, a Canadian retailer.</i></h3>
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As I have once uttered in VOCIFEROUS, about <a href="http://vociferousmag.com/2013/03/there-is-male-in-female-style-vociferous/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #990000;">how the words "masculine" and "feminine" are used interchangeably in fashion</span></a>, and henceforth also mentioned the name Rad Hourani, here the story pretty much goes on the same narration. The Canadian designer is the only one who exclusively crafts unisex couture collection, although simultaneously the likes of Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemesteer have already proceeded with creating unisex pieces way way before Hourani. Nevertheless, it is to be underscored that he is the first designer to base his every design on unisex DNA. <br />
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But when couture seems out of reach, here Hourani presents his capsule collection in collaboration with a retailer, thus making the pieces more accessible. Better, because we can adopt his brilliant styling approach just based on these photographs. Each piece, so it seems, is coupled with other wardrobe staples. When on the left it is more "feminine," the right one resembles more of a manly style. But that distinction does not separate the two automatically. Through the comparison, Hourani captures the essence of unisex, proving that when it comes to dressing, genders are no longer in sight.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">images belong to Rad Hourani and SSENSE</span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-58481376475338384222014-01-06T19:31:00.004+07:002014-01-06T19:33:34.048+07:00WARDROBE INSPIRATION | Céline Retrospective<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">An instant journey to the small history of Phoebe Philo's creation in </span></i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Céline is much more nostalgic than I think. </i></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Spring 2014</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The editors and buyers, as well as customers, are praising Phoebe Philo over and over again, for what she crafts under the French house, Céline. I, on the other hand, have had difficulties channeling myself to the house's creation, as it exudes--pardon my word--awkward simplicity I cannot bring myself to. So here is my attempt to get acquainted at mere seconds to the world of Céline, the Philo reigning period to be exact, by extracting my favourite looks/pieces from several seasons of the brand and imagining myself having limitless bank account so I can have them in my closet. That way, I assume, would help me appreciate Philo's aesthetics that somewhat empowers women through what they wear. After all, credits for </span>Céline almost always contain the words versatile, accessible, simple and relate-able if not luxurious and modern.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>First up is the blues</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fall 2013/ Spring 2010</span></div>
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Black and white are the utmost neutral of the color spectrum: the safest bet and the easiest to pair. True. Nevertheless for me, blue is the most versatile. Not only the colour has numerous shades, it also complements various skin tones and is able to deliver fun, feminine and powerful at the same time. Philo adopts the colour real well, given that the left look from Fall 2013 collection remains as the most inspiring (or copied, depend on how you perceive it) getup of the year. Additionally, the draped dress on the right is a definite go-to for a night out, or even for a work-related event if a blazer is thrown over.<br />
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<b>White has shades, too</b><br />
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Fall 2013/ Resort 2011</div>
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...and it is called creme. I know, I know those two colours are noticeably different, both of which are the neutrals and will always be. This time I imagine keeping myself a dress from the Fall 2013--the dress at the first glimpse appears unbelievably genius and at the second infinitely wearable. Meanwhile from the Resort 2011, the non-existent season, a slight stroke of colors on the pure white separates manages to amp up what otherwise is a sporty pairing. Must. Have.<br />
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<b>Dark meets bright</b><br />
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Resort 2010/ Spring 2010</div>
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Perhaps not a lot of women fancy the pairing of light and dark back then, but now, it is everything modernism has to do. Well, probably not everything. But the cape-like top on from Céline spring collection on the right is EVERYTHING. I seriously consider that it is one of the prototype of the cape-ubiquity today, the ones designed with such airy yet structured feel. At the same token, the suit and top combo relinquishes "too uptight" once the flowing part of the top emerges. It is dark meets bright meets brilliant.<br />
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<b>The effortless neutral</b><br />
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Resort 2014/ Resort 2010</div>
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If you are the ones shying away from wearing neutrals because the shades can make you appear nude, I am with you. But if you are the ones resisting oversize vest/parka like the one from resort 2010 installment, I am afraid I am not with you. Maybe it is the patchwork talking, or the oversize shape persuading, but this is an archetype of successful dressing: picking a statement outerwear that understates everything. Meanwhile, the Asian inspired top and pants from the recent 2014 collection are mere extensions of what kind of neutrals we all should be aiming for.<br />
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<b>Unexpected is always in</b><br />
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Spring 2014/ Fall 2012</div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Lastly, after a wardrobe/retrospective/whatever full of basic colours and shapes, it is about time to let striking pieces kicking in. It is the artsy season, the spring 2014, and the watercolour dress filled with strokes of Philo's artsy inspirations is reasonable to don. The structured upper part and flowing bottom part summarise precisely the future of dress, and possibly the future of femininity. And what is fall without </span>Céline big coat? Or at least, let's get something in similar styling. With the red pants, of course.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Images are all from style.com</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-85667926326701473882013-12-26T18:11:00.002+07:002013-12-27T09:44:27.571+07:00SOMETHING RAD | A Dystopian Antidote<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Huxley's "Brave New World" materialises in Viktor & Rolf flagship store.</i></span></h3>
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I am the type of person who gets intimidated easily. I don't know why. Especially upon entering a plush luxury brand store, where the store assistants keep staring at my non-high-end-branded attire, the sense of un-belonging hopelessly lingers. The predicament of this, of course, happens when I visit a store in my OWN country, in my OWN city. Because when I do the exact same thing, don in pretty much my regular outfit, in a country other than my own, no intimidation whatsoever happens. But we are not to discuss that now. I guess what I am trying to say is that, look at this mind blowing, non-intimidating Viktor & Rolf flagship store, people.<br />
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In the designers' interview with the ever-edgy <a href="http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/18190/1/viktor-rolf-the-couture-laboratory" target="_blank">Dazed Digital</a>, they mention their fixation on grey--a colour that fully emblazons the brand's flagship store located in Paris. Decorated with various shades of grey (pun is not intended) and felt material, the store is born from the idea of creating a store that is not there. Thus, the architect comes out with an idea of "ghost architecture" which results in a surreal experience inside the store.<br />
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Judging from these imageries provided by the said site, it is rather apparent for me that the interior hearkens to my all-time favourite author, Aldous Huxley's much celebrated novel: "Brave New World." Taking place in AD 2540, the story unfolds a dystopian future where humans know no love, religion, history and culture but rather immerse themselves in technology and temporary escape of pain. To my eyes, this futuristic store serves as a closely perfect setting for such story to take place. There is a depth that belongs to Viktor & Rolf that could possibly translate what Huxley has in words to a tangible vision. Or is there?<br />
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<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-37131812879904075382013-12-15T23:24:00.000+07:002013-12-15T23:24:02.392+07:00ON RADAR | Fashion Coupling<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">To me, what's juicier than those of celebrity gossips is those of fashion insiders gossips. </span></i></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I am not going to lie. I have tried to include this post under "Her Flair" category, but deep in my conscience I am aware that this is supposed to be labelled "On Radar." It is quite a rare occasion I witness in the industry, that two equally attractive individuals (at least in my eyes) make it as a couple. One reason is probably because of the limited number of heterosexual men in fashion, and the other is straightforwardly because the fashion journalists are more into penning review rather than juicy <strike>gossip</strike> fact. So when street style photographers finally have their lenses on Veronika Heilbrunner and Justin O'Shea, my heart rejoices.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Heilbrunner is the fashion editor of mytheresa.com where O'Shea occupies a position as the buying director. Coincidence much? I'd say the love grows fonder as they frequently meet in the office, however, in a small chat posted by vogue.com O'Shea mentions how he is first attracted to his present girlfriend. <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; text-align: justify;">“I remember first meeting Veronika at an Acne Studios showroom in Copenhagen, there was this hot tall blonde girl across the room. My initial attraction had nothing to do with her style (I am a man after all!), although I do remember that what she was wearing that day—high-waisted Levi’s denim shorts and a white tee with a motorcycle jacket and Acne Studios ankle boots." </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">After all, a man who works in fashion will remember what you wear, no big deal. And who wouldn't want their men to dress as aptly as O'Shea? It is probably his too keen eyes on what you wear that will be quite bothersome for the relationship, but if Heilbrunner can handle it, perhaps you can, too. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">images: streetfsn</span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-39326625636854587092013-12-08T21:48:00.003+07:002013-12-08T21:48:34.344+07:00TALKING POINT | The Simplicity of Being<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>I ramble about minimalism (again) and the price we have to pay for "less design."</i></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">left: an editorial using Stella McCartney's collection, from tumblr; right: Thakoon Addition Pre-Fall 2014</span></div>
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A simple t-shirt, a structured blazer or a nicely shaped skirt--are those what we are looking for when skimming clothes in stores? Something that would effortlessly blend with the rest of what stays in our wardrobe, perhaps? Or something to complement that statement pieces we've long acquired but has never been worn because the right match is not present? I know that is what I tend to do when going shopping these days, precisely hindering myself from the crazy motifs while having the Celines, the Wangs or the Balenciagas (from Ghesquiere's Spring/Summer 2013 that I still cannot erase from my fashion reference just yet) in mind.<br />
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The resurgence of everything pared down, simple and clean, or what columnists and writers refer as the "minimalism" trend leaves me with my own dilemma. Why is fashion, something so close yet so far to reach slowly turning into something overly accessible (cue the easy-to-pair pieces) these days? Where are the ornamentation, opulent fabrication and intricate silhouette? In a not-so-distant past I justify the beyond logical pricing of designer offerings because of the intricacy and expensive fabrics, but now that everything seems like what I have or about to have in my wardrobe, the excessive pricing somehow does not make sense anymore.<br />
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What happened to the crazy, over-the-top, whimsical fashion, people? Yes, I do not dismiss the fact that there are still visionary designers who go that way, but now everyone seems to prioritise minimal shapes over everything. Design wise, one has once said that the best design is not to design at all. I partly agree. But when you label it with a lot of zeros, don't the designers have the obligation to put certain magic touch to justify the price?<br />
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I guess it is not fair to generalise all designers who champion the clean, pared down look to commercial designers who race after the trend and grab buyers' attention. While going through some pre-fall early arrivals in style.com, my sinister argumentation of designers going for simple look boils down to a fact that a handful actually exemplifies certain kind of vision. These brands really make clothes people actually want to wear, and that is a genuine, pure complement a designer can get. Otherwise, what is the point of pre-fall? Why do we even have such label for a season that does not exist (in real life)? I will leave the answer to you.<br />
<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-67144675348728180662013-10-28T22:03:00.002+07:002013-10-28T22:05:29.607+07:00LOVE-WORTHY | The World is Never Flat<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;">...even when you are wearing flats. Because you will not stumble and your feet won't sore.</i></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3BUO1v5khDnuu9nAc2qHL20eLOID2xLT2n70NYSrsYqIcS9xlurb7dvqJ5swXSstCc3JYR1xJgq63ziTrhDMFO_haia8oLpKz7RDQrUzfvhNgkHiSKwgeG1dwc0ik9wCkghY0v0N35Cg/s1600/22scene-marni-slide-LQBQ-jumbo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3BUO1v5khDnuu9nAc2qHL20eLOID2xLT2n70NYSrsYqIcS9xlurb7dvqJ5swXSstCc3JYR1xJgq63ziTrhDMFO_haia8oLpKz7RDQrUzfvhNgkHiSKwgeG1dwc0ik9wCkghY0v0N35Cg/s640/22scene-marni-slide-LQBQ-jumbo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Marni SS14</div>
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Spring/summer 2014, albeit the fact that it hasn't started yet, has already felt like a season a go, all thanks to the confusing nature of fashion shows. Such early presentations of what supposed to be the latest collections then give birth to, shall I say, premature trends, not excluding the trend of flats.<br />
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You might as well shout to your screen now as I say that flats are THE trend. (WHAT?!) I know. Flats have been by our side for what feels like forever, and to say that they are in vogue right now is such an understatement. Flats are the saver. Flats are what keep the women going. So why are they in trend just during this very particularly confusing season?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO_u8ws3j31iy26VlEyDfI1HkfVy4Tuo2nuEkBR9_4nC1Cd9F11VXiTx58Bl3srmP_hQlCDp2qYqOHNSWXW2dPcbW-rldlvcSTwI7io_pxHFGtkb0R_8WNDf6XiO-Iex4SSUGc23aR6d8/s1600/30scene-givenchy-slide-VM7I-jumbo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO_u8ws3j31iy26VlEyDfI1HkfVy4Tuo2nuEkBR9_4nC1Cd9F11VXiTx58Bl3srmP_hQlCDp2qYqOHNSWXW2dPcbW-rldlvcSTwI7io_pxHFGtkb0R_8WNDf6XiO-Iex4SSUGc23aR6d8/s640/30scene-givenchy-slide-VM7I-jumbo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Givenchy SS14</div>
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I cannot say that I am against the "trend." The fact that I am a big flat fan and wish that they can come in a sexier, quirkier way than their heeled counterpart only strengthens my argument that women should spend more time in flats. Their ubiquitous appearance on the spring/summer runway only confirms so. For me, it feels like a celebration of a freedom, where walking comfortably triumphs over walking gracefully but in pain.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmXqbFGknMHsw96iRHpPAkZmNS3s6s9TWbePYwoHYRQF00vn20eCwcqsIMyxtHWVS3qWjtsRDVaX3S1-k7hQ1HoDtUr8WQb8fhGZ7yqa7LswycXICsAK5wbDUsQEVq9IjQiW_jT6oCbZs/s1600/17scene-rocha-slide-KRP0-jumbo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmXqbFGknMHsw96iRHpPAkZmNS3s6s9TWbePYwoHYRQF00vn20eCwcqsIMyxtHWVS3qWjtsRDVaX3S1-k7hQ1HoDtUr8WQb8fhGZ7yqa7LswycXICsAK5wbDUsQEVq9IjQiW_jT6oCbZs/s640/17scene-rocha-slide-KRP0-jumbo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Rocha SS14</div>
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Thus I can't be more excited to see how flats are going to evolve, from the step sibling to the real star on the style stage. Designers are experimenting with their flats and I am sure that the high-street retailers will find their own way to trickle down the trend. In the mean time, I'll just enjoy the notion that flats are in trend because for me, they are never out of style.<br />
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images are from T Magazine blog</div>
<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-10483713086303662532013-10-01T21:55:00.001+07:002013-10-01T23:52:38.079+07:00WARDROBE INSPIRATION | Style Utopia?<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>Simple aesthetics is probably the answer to the cluttered fashion industry. </i></span></h3>
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Let's admit it. Fashion industry is one commercial sphere that is highly competitive, leaving both the producers and consumers with myriad choices and little time to decide. In a snap, one trend has disappeared and replaced with another one. Sometimes it is too fast, too furiously annoying, that probably on your way to the cashier to pay your purchase of the day (which you think will be good to photograph and upload in your social media channels), the trend is silently but surely heading to obsolesce.<br />
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I have quite limited myself these days, trying to separate what stuffs I <strike>need</strike> really want with what stuffs I want. That way, when I want to buy certain fashion item, I would try projecting myself mixing and matching it in different styles. Then if the item is rather costly, I would try to be the fortune teller - predicting whether I can still wear it at ease in foreseeable future, or in another words, whether the item can transcend season.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVS6AZrRT5fWVn5LFusrGbp7Z5_3S4f4fQJ420QWNwV3yRV39iMOZ9u4wTv40sUquxAMERbSx6CYqYQiWxta2ndKCF8T60Hbkn45aX3RkVY6OvPcSJee2Qic-TFFEN7hErYuZtv_-lN4w/s1600/&otherstories2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVS6AZrRT5fWVn5LFusrGbp7Z5_3S4f4fQJ420QWNwV3yRV39iMOZ9u4wTv40sUquxAMERbSx6CYqYQiWxta2ndKCF8T60Hbkn45aX3RkVY6OvPcSJee2Qic-TFFEN7hErYuZtv_-lN4w/s640/&otherstories2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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My encounter with & Other Stories has actually begun a while ago, when the hype surrounding the brand was just built. It later occurred to me that what they present in the collections, and how they treat the selections that are up on the website, are really thoughtful. There is no must-have, because everything is practically a must-have. The pants are straight cut, the dresses are easy. The jewelries are beyond desirable and the colours are versatile.<br />
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It seems to me that & Other Stories has omitted the word "trend" from their vocabulary - which is a good thing. Women are in desperate need of understanding that they do not need marvelous clothes and lavish, extravagant pieces to fill their wardrobe. The designers can then calm themselves down and follow their design intuition to create clothes women can actually wear. The next argument is probably, is such condition a style utopia or a fashion dystopia? You decide.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">images are from <a href="http://www.stories.com/" target="_blank">& Other Stories</a></span></div>
<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-45451680694799905762013-09-29T20:37:00.000+07:002013-10-01T23:48:17.538+07:00THOUGHTS | Why Fashion isn't Art<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;">After numerous explanations and intersections of fashion and art, two designers claim that they do not think fashion is a form of art.</i></h3>
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Flipping back several pages in the fashion-art book, we can recall a number of famous collaborations between the field of fashion and art - freshly ingrained in mind is probably what Louis Vuitton has pulled off with Yayoi Kusama, and the house's latest collaboration with Indonesian artist, Eko Nugroho. The yearly exhibition in the Metropolitan Museum of Art New York that focuses on a designer and his/her retrospective journey in fashion also confirms how closely linked the two fields are. That is without forgetting to mention numerous other fashion-related exhibitions, as well as artistic attempts called Haute Couture collections that are worked on two times every year.<br />
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However, the notion of fashion can be equal to art undeniably feels a bit far-fetched when we compare what happens on the magnificent stage of fashion in the a la mode capitals to what happens around us. Fashion is decoded in the form of clothing garbs. Fashion retailers eye for as much profit as possible instead of quality and style. People are flocking to adopt the newest trends at the lowest price - an action that for me, arguably feels right and wrong at the same time. Art itself, attempts to define the abstract ideas, which come both utterly cheap and unbelievably expensive, depends on what kind of art articles we are talking about.<br />
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So much confusion in each field - both art and fashion, because of the different aspects and qualities applied to value the creation. Rising British designer J.W. Anderson whose part of the company is now owned by LVMH sounds his opinion about whether his creation is an art. In the interview with <a href="http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/17128/1/j-w-anderson-i-will-never-see-fashion-as-an-art-form" target="_blank"><span style="color: #990000;">Dazed Digital</span></a>, he mentions that, "<span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I will never see fashion as an art form. I see it as more mechanical. You cannot compare an artist to a designer; I think it’s a very different proposition. Both are commerce now, from what they used to be, but fashion is reduced, art doesn’t necessarily happen that way. It doesn’t get reduced, it exceeds in value. I wouldn’t want it be an artist, but I like the idea that there is a shelf life to it - you have to harness this moment."</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">A more thought-provoking statement came from Japanese "artistic" designer Yohji Yamamoto in his interview with <a href="http://sleekmag.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #990000;">Sleek</span></a>, saying that he hates the word fashion. "I hate fashion. Or the word fashion, which sounds colourful, extravagant, expensive and gorgeous." In the interview Yamamoto also considered that what he is making is not art, although people often believe so. For him, fashion is about the business of craftsmanship, a side of which is going to disappear soon.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">Witnessing how fast trend comes and go, how ephemeral a creation in fashion industry is, maybe it is simply logical to say that fashion is not art. Still, a part of it can very much be appreciated like art - something that moves and influences us in a meaningful way. I personally enjoy how the interchange between the two worlds take place in an intersection that is busy with both the brilliant minds and hype seekers.</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">image is from <a href="http://vogue.com/">vogue.com</a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;"><br /></span>Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-44174357900491404952013-09-28T21:41:00.000+07:002013-10-01T21:28:09.465+07:00FAVOURITES | Just Say It<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;">Fashion, no matter how intellectual it attempts to be, relies most of its expression on the clothes. In his Paris runway, Jun Takahashi blatantly pours his intellectual thoughts on brilliant clothes that have words on it.</i></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_kGBadlxeI9DylY0wKewWc2YDKqTORNuavn4EpTsSn-_yN-RSftwoHdkB4jqwBAI0U8i4hsDyQo1saSPjAuK5x5Er4JR5aqdD-oOIlPD1JLrhCJdU6cSKcN1MAVQmOP58jbSxfZTf9ag/s1600/undercover+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_kGBadlxeI9DylY0wKewWc2YDKqTORNuavn4EpTsSn-_yN-RSftwoHdkB4jqwBAI0U8i4hsDyQo1saSPjAuK5x5Er4JR5aqdD-oOIlPD1JLrhCJdU6cSKcN1MAVQmOP58jbSxfZTf9ag/s640/undercover+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKOpakWu3nN3sT0XqPFSCKTs9191vCCpRKEMntKvk3SMjGHA9xv2D3ZdO1NWhXPonibakpdiFF1kGaXLublftcsJSVqz-PifPJ1t8LOiODdlhven3QIHU8S6V8AtaqOzXGiH0oB8kBEak/s1600/undercover+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKOpakWu3nN3sT0XqPFSCKTs9191vCCpRKEMntKvk3SMjGHA9xv2D3ZdO1NWhXPonibakpdiFF1kGaXLublftcsJSVqz-PifPJ1t8LOiODdlhven3QIHU8S6V8AtaqOzXGiH0oB8kBEak/s640/undercover+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Without any means to undermine the talented, "senior" designers and reputable fashion brands that celebrate quite a distant season of spring/summer 2014, I personally find that the dark horses start to steal the light, leaving the big fashion houses muddled in their highly commercialised world. Presentation after presentation, the minimalism, structured silhouette makes a repetitive appearance with various interpretation but only a handful manage to leave deep impressions and set the bar high.<br />
<br />
I have just taken a notice for the brand Undercover - a Japanese brand founded by Jun Takahashi, which held its runway in Paris Fashion Week. As straightforward as it can be, Takahashi seems to be bothered with how the world operates right now and pours his contemplation on the design. The words "snug," "silent," and "dog" are revealed to be spelled backward, thus the real message says "guns," "listen," and "god."<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWVWNM8zhPH8so7KVol-sO37wDpnUbE15QRo6HUZzPKm3R-GNxlgy5J-RNzEZjY9JM3mU1ckjThCb5rJtHRBQxwT2Ov15-UiwBeqlkmaixw9MdWYzVXB4p3gRXLzJuNQsT1-hAjHm70yw/s1600/undercover+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWVWNM8zhPH8so7KVol-sO37wDpnUbE15QRo6HUZzPKm3R-GNxlgy5J-RNzEZjY9JM3mU1ckjThCb5rJtHRBQxwT2Ov15-UiwBeqlkmaixw9MdWYzVXB4p3gRXLzJuNQsT1-hAjHm70yw/s640/undercover+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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For me, what Takahashi does precisely captures my own contemplation of this world and in a way, pointing out the concern of the society without heavily concentrating on politics. Instead, he tactically addresses his concern in the form of utterly wearable clothes that embrace the word-as-detail trend. Only, his lettering contains deep pondering, something that reminds me to what the protesters do when they are about to voice their opinion. Nevertheless, Undercover asserts the truth at ease, that we, by the end of the day, are the generation who endlessly needs some form of expression.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">images are from <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a></span></div>
<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-1477098679479075742013-09-26T11:05:00.003+07:002013-09-28T21:06:35.638+07:00ON RADAR | Tie-Dye<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i>I have backed off quite a
bit from the fashion week hype, and suddenly stumble upon a fact: the hype is
actually in me.</i></span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPq0sO9FVncsg_Pxt0WnRYE64Q13nN0asJwsNteo-9Tnfavl6JB_hZtBTp4nuBH7xwEDNXJjXHEGIykuP_34A9DSTPKh6cRlKfeZn3fQbVzIhagsm7R6xKzUmOUdCp-M3cDrZ0fEPvDlo/s1600/MARC0267-horz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPq0sO9FVncsg_Pxt0WnRYE64Q13nN0asJwsNteo-9Tnfavl6JB_hZtBTp4nuBH7xwEDNXJjXHEGIykuP_34A9DSTPKh6cRlKfeZn3fQbVzIhagsm7R6xKzUmOUdCp-M3cDrZ0fEPvDlo/s640/MARC0267-horz.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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My knowledge of designers
is qualified “better than average” as proven with my attempt to write fashion
rather intellectually, but I have little to no knowledge whatsoever about
<a href="http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-AVACCARELLO/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #990000;">Anthony Vacarello</span></a>. Nor that I spark certain interest for the designer – that
is, until Susie Bubble’s Instagram shows a photo of his show. A look in
tie-dyed denim. I have to go little bit over the top here, but I experienced
some kind of deja vu looking at that sleek denim jacket. Why? <a href="http://gabrielayosefina.blogspot.com/2012/01/diy-acid.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #990000;">BECAUSE I HAVE IT</span></a>.<o:p></o:p></div>
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More precisely, I made
it. Although I cannot really boast that tie-dye DIY is mine, I have made that
jacket in early 2012, thus getting ahead of Anthony Vacarello in the tie-dye
game. And so are plenty other DIY enthusiasts and bloggers. We walk around in
our creation, and now that it has made to the runway, several wealthy customers
will have similar tie-dye version by paying much much more money for it. The
argument is however clear: our fabric has low quality, Vacarello’s doesn’t.<o:p></o:p></div>
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In terms of originality,
though, such designer’s creation cannot be really said original. But what is
originality in today’s fashion anyway? I can only pique your attention, that,
incidentally, Vacarello’s denim shade resembles closely to mine. Perhaps, we
are using similar technique and bump into similar material. Well, of course I’m
joking. But if you want to make one, here is a fairly simple DIY I posted in
2012. Until then, I can only say that the democratisation of fashion will
slowly see its light. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">runway photo is from <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-4774788079612079012013-09-13T18:07:00.004+07:002013-09-13T18:11:08.122+07:00STORY | Love and Hate in Fashion Week<h3>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Apparently,
the dilemma of whether you should only highlight a plus from one collection and
abandon things that you dislike does not only strike the journalist.</span></i></span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-ZY0jx3PwTIZxIhLJY-u8_K2d2LKC2YA9nrJ7F8mKRP8mjSiHcuTgPW8sJAnxFaQ-BE_jND3s_bhmRIdYCYpOl6KQUhO5fVkFifgODfa7qsqLyjhEE2hnjVj_4Y979FJz3HWVf0C6Ws/s1600/_AGA4726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-ZY0jx3PwTIZxIhLJY-u8_K2d2LKC2YA9nrJ7F8mKRP8mjSiHcuTgPW8sJAnxFaQ-BE_jND3s_bhmRIdYCYpOl6KQUhO5fVkFifgODfa7qsqLyjhEE2hnjVj_4Y979FJz3HWVf0C6Ws/s640/_AGA4726.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Amidst the
enormous storm of New York Fashion Week news in our feed, a question persists:
what if I hate a particular collection? That very same question perhaps crosses
the mind of the front row citizens and fashion journalists in attendance,
plenty of which decides to talk about the highs and disregard the lows. Upon my
observation, constant absence of discussions about particular brand are
actually signals that it is widely unloved. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sad, isn’t
it?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I am simply
curious of what is really going on in the mind of the show-goers and what are
the discussions off the record when it comes to something we hate. Let’s face it,
fashion industry has been long regarded as a bitchy source, where people who
work in it slowly become the devil who wears Prada (although in reality, only a
handful REALLY wears Prada – the rest should crawl up to reach the high ladder
to afford one). So why are almost all reviews reflect something positive? Where
are the sharp opinions and snarky commentaries for the designers?</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">On a
logical note, designers who have created collections that result in millions of
dollars must have adequate skills NOT to screw up and design badly. They have
the power as well, as performed by some designers who dislike negative
commentary from the journalists. They can delete you from the invitees list or
place you somewhere far far away that only the heads of the models are visible.
Deletion from the invitation list is probably not so bad, when compared to the
brand’s decision for discontinuing their advertisement agreement with the
related publication. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Horrible,
isn’t it?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
apparently the bloggers, who now count themselves as the influential
commentators and taste makers, continue to proclaim their love for almost all
shows they are invited to. I am both a blogger and a journalist, albeit not
(yet?) a wildly popular one, but somehow I sense this kind of wrong doings in
terms of criticism in fashion. It should be fun, yes, but at the same time I
feel that it should be democratic and open for discussion.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From my own
experience, I have once tweeted something blatantly negative about certain
collection of the house and someone, a local designer, fired back at me by
pretty much saying that I am no expert thus I have no legibility to give such
opinion. Really? Because to me, when the so-called experts of fashion cannot
really say and explain what’s going on, then someone who is free from
obligation to obey any advertisement deal has the right to sound their
opinion. When the fashion journalists are flocking to make the brands look
good, I think it is not such a bad thing to deliver criticism in my own way and
praising in my own way, too. I can give some stupid shitty sentences to
describe a collection, but that is probably just my way of learning. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Or not?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If that is
really <i>not</i>, then I will just resume my fashion writing 101 from the
reputable <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a>. I hopefully will find my way of explaining my lack of
understanding in the whole <span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">à</span> la mode universe.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">photo is from <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a> (Proenza Schouler SS14)</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">P.S: I admire the bravery of Robin Givhan (and celebrate her return to fashion journalism) to <a href="http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/09/givhan-cultural-tourism-as-seen-at-rodarte.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #990000;">write something honest and at the same time, thoughtful regarding the <strike>mess</strike> creative confusion at Rodarte.</span></a></span></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-43868940889574443522013-09-08T00:56:00.003+07:002013-09-08T00:56:43.289+07:00THOUGHTS | Cloudy Fashion<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;"><i>Similarity is no new thing in fashion but what if a New York
Fashion Week collection presents something similar with what local brand has
designed earlier?</i></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihk-aXVKMZ3NQOzdYMQi-zA4QJqNAB6zGjNFRtEdQTmqGlrFwW8AqVGe5F3AUThZBW7MOBdvzoI2ys1jGxpOdid2wpNu2Xqu_1GoCNOGdwDzxCJ5FVbi24wH4TAdruZmcsRxGQiukLqM4/s1600/misha+nonoo-argyle+and+oxford.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihk-aXVKMZ3NQOzdYMQi-zA4QJqNAB6zGjNFRtEdQTmqGlrFwW8AqVGe5F3AUThZBW7MOBdvzoI2ys1jGxpOdid2wpNu2Xqu_1GoCNOGdwDzxCJ5FVbi24wH4TAdruZmcsRxGQiukLqM4/s640/misha+nonoo-argyle+and+oxford.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Left: <a href="http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-MNONOO" target="_blank">Misha Nonoo S/S14</a> from <a href="http://style.com/">style.com</a>. Right: <a href="http://argyleandoxford.com/collection/11-the-world-we-live-in" target="_blank">Argyle and Oxford "The World We Live In" collection</a></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The fashion week has kicked off this week
and I cannot be more excited to witness how trends are shaped - both inside and
outside the show. This post, and this blog as a whole, however, will not
attempt to deliberate each and every collection that ignites my interest as
what I have been writing in the past, but rather, the fashion week review will
consist of my attempt to spot any peculiarity, coincidence, and who knows, faux
pas here and there. That leads to my small discovery about a brand named Misha
Nonoo which has just hosted the New York Fashion Week presentation for three
times this spring/summer 2014 season.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Down the runway, Misha Nonoo has cheeky,
carefree and most definitely, pastel pieces that are irresistible for the
feminine, yet with certain twist to it. A particular look that sets me in deja
vu, however, is a short pantsuit in blue-ish, cloudy print that reminds me of
what an Indonesian brand, Argyle and Oxford has in their latest offering. N<span lang="EN-US">ote that Argyle and Oxford present their collection first, Misha
Nonoo follows later.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">So what is this telling us? This little
coincidence is one of many proofs of how fashion has globalised. The influences
can come from anywhere. The brilliant minds are not centralised in the fashion
capitals only. Although cloud print is not a breakthrough by either brand, how
Argyle and Oxford develops their sense of trend to pieces that design-wise is
eligible to be shown on the NYFW runway (by comparing it to what Misha Nonoo presents), is worthy to think about. Maybe in
years to come we will not have to benchmark all trends to the mode cities and
major fashion weeks only. I vehemently believe so.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3852854725944039973.post-44392589310622489532013-09-01T17:29:00.001+07:002013-09-01T17:30:15.554+07:00FASHION SCENE | It's Fashion Weeks!<h3>
<i style="font-weight: normal;">On what feels like forever in blogging timeline, I am thrilled and feel obliged to do a post as the big month a.k.a fashion week is approaching. </i></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBJ6YnT50zDQVpKoN9SHpz3Yl5MZG1DmdAqJyJFKdqCwFm7TdF6Mo2S5atz1GDtRZz3_T1DZzvQ8WkL-e_nlGeHopvIzYepwyubnbbm9Wg7xc3iNiqTh8ExcaE1egQRDeXufdiHr1j_I/s1600/1307031126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBJ6YnT50zDQVpKoN9SHpz3Yl5MZG1DmdAqJyJFKdqCwFm7TdF6Mo2S5atz1GDtRZz3_T1DZzvQ8WkL-e_nlGeHopvIzYepwyubnbbm9Wg7xc3iNiqTh8ExcaE1egQRDeXufdiHr1j_I/s640/1307031126.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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September and March are two holy months in fashion industry, for the a la mode capitals of New York, London, Milan, and Paris--in that order, celebrate the upcoming season that seems like a million year later but already so salivating with shows and parties. Not to be seconded, the street style will also undoubtedly be an essential part of the fashion weeks, where the right clothes (that is autumn/winter collection) are worn at the right seasons, and we can cheer upon it.<br />
<br />
Hoard of editors and buyers and bloggers--the last one mentioned is still a highly debatable subject (or object?) up until today, in which people and the industry as a whole are weighing their influence and importance for sitting up in the same row as the journalists and what themselves consider as industry insiders, will fly across the world to the cities, fitting all the statement pieces into their trunks (monogram or not) and charging their gadget batteries full all the time so they can take pictures and later instagram them all. Designers and models--used to be the only subjects worth talking about during the weeks, will still rush to get the show done, oftentimes being rewarded with the big headlines and endless mentions after satisfying the hunger of the fashion eyes.<br />
<br />
And what is the main point of it all?<br />
<br />
Years before (fashion historian can calculate), people like ME--a.k.a. no one, cannot give this kind of elaboration because everything happened in fashion weeks is basically untouched, away from the reach of the mundane. Shows are exclusive, invitations are given to the most influential, clients, buyers, and editors are the only pairs of vision who see. So with all the access we have to whatever happens behind-the-scene and plenty photos that tell stories, how will the fashion week change?<br />
<br />
One, everything will get stale so easily. <a href="http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/08/23/sign-of-the-times-the-new-speed-of-fashion/" target="_blank">Suzy Menkes</a> has articulated it in T Magazine just right regarding the confusing season of fashion, where the fashion weeks are showing six months in advance and being stocked just for around a month. As everything has been reviewed and seen before, when the season comes, it will no longer be viewed as new, but rather, outdated.<br />
<br />
Two, the line between the insiders and outsiders is blurry. We witness it all, we have access to it all; so who to say that we are outsiders? Journalists, for once, get all the invitations. But now, the bloggers, even those who only showcase what they wear each and every day without any insight and commentary pieces can get into the show, taking beautiful photos, and (probably) walking away with goodies. I really appreciate those who really put out great piece of writing accompanied by photos, thus enabling me to understand the collection from different point of view and helping me to reach the exclusivity. But those who perhaps hashtag their post with #ootd each and every time? I still don't get it.<br />
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Three, overflowing information. I have once stopped following certain twitter accounts as they constantly update everything happens and somehow it bugs the hell out of me. Call me old-school but that is really what I feel, that people require some time to digest all the updates of fashion week. At least, a thoughtful commentary and decent photo are sufficient to feed us all, rather than constantly updating meaningless low quality photos on everything you see on the runway (which is later uploaded by style.com anyway). And that is just one case, probably in relation with how fast everything turns old is that we see similar outtakes everywhere and cannot help but getting tired of it.<br />
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Still, I am excited about fashion weeks and wish to one day join the merciless, fashionably on-time crowd.<br />
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What say you?<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">image: <a href="http://streetfsn.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">STREETFSN</a></span></div>
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<br />Gabbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02966970956947716797noreply@blogger.com