The two boys at Viktor & Rolf definitely surprises me with their high mix of modern and classic on the most modern-classic palette: black and white. While everyone is probably drooling over Celine (exhibited below), I cast Viktor & Rolf as the top notch of the season this time (while waiting patiently for Tisci to work on his magic over Givenchy). Here, what seems as simple tuxedo is turned ambitiously with rock and roll vibe while the short dress gets little origami work it definitely deserves.
Phoebe Philo still employs her structural code for Celine this time (excuse my lazy typing) with feminine shapes and kooky cutting. What seems like mermaid skirts get makeover and it is suddenly up there in the cool gang, with what seems as long vest and square blouse. The clutch deserves another attention for sure, although up to this point I still haven't quite grasped the whole Celine-mania thing. The house protrudes true minimalism, you say?
Another structure day in Paris, now is from Kenzo. I cannot help but think that the shoes resemble Balenciaga's (before Wang, undoubtedly) although the reincarnation hits the soft spot this time. What used to be simple white shirt and black skirt are refined to couture-ish separates while on the other hand, magic eye prints are splattered just like that on comfy sweater and balloon wrap skirt. I trail on the majestic Kenzo work and even it is deemed quirky and not wearable and all, I will not change my mind.
Isabel Marant apparently takes her time off from everything Americana and soothes things down now. Her loyal followers will not be disappointed, I guarantee, with sharpness wisdom all over the collection. Leather and black are no new pairs, and so is blazer. For once it reminds me a bit of Balmain and Saint Laurent, but Ms. Marant has surely thought a lot about dressing down and investing in immaculate pieces, for which, these two looks suffice.
Lastly, all hail Dries Van Noten. I secretly admire the guy for his all work and humility, especially for bringing the grunge back last season (what's up, plaid?) and this collection is no exception. He overbearingly pours tons of feathers on the catwalk, being embroidered or sewn into sheer dress, apparently. Another game of proportion and material marry, I am in no place to complain. The clothes speak well for itself, without even the designer has to explain anything, except: pretty, pretty, pretty. Kiddin' folks, but that jacket is really something to invest in an ambivalence future. Won't you agree?
all pictures are from the generous style.com
