26.2.12

The international fashion front runners are currently sipping their cappucino before rushing to Milan Fashion Week's shows but here in Jakarta, we get a parade of our own. Reviewing over the past seasons of Indonesian fashion industry, there is no doubt that this creative class is on the rise. With another fashion week being held just around three months after the yearly other fashion week I wonder what the designers will showcast differently in such short period of time. I am one of the lucky fashion bastards to get the invitation to the Dulux fashion show that involved quite a serious thing in there, all the promising young designers who apparently being "tight" together with the colour concept from Dulux.

The show was started with a serene collection from Yosafat Dwi Kurniawan. Unlike his previous Dichotomy touch where black dominated the stage, now he takes a softer turn, with peach, dusty grey, beige, and some hints of the colour of the year (tangerine orange it is). With constitutionally modern silhouette, Yosafat endeavours to accentuate some plain shirts with sparkles and mix of various fabric that escapes from one dimensional look.


I somehow wish that the clothes weren't so serious, since the sleek hair and pencil skirts kinda remind me of office thingy. Still, Yosafat has articulately developed his signature cut and polished look that makes me able to grasp the continuation and consistency of his design, that without being over the top or highly dramatic, it deserves the attention.


When I take a closer look at these shots, taken from his twitter, I reconfirmed my unskilled eyes to see the orange-y details better. In my honest opinion, I do not fancy those. The additional wings on the side of the skirts are debatable, at some point it is actually refreshing to see unexpected details, but it potentially makes the hips appear wider. On the top of my mind when I see the thin line is again, stewardess uniform, which I think that the pencil skirt can be taken a little bit more sophisticated than just lines. Personally, I guess Yosafat should really focus on his fabric mix and invent something refreshing with it, like the beige leather with organza sleeves shirt. Clever clever design.


Second up on the show is Albert Yanuar, who presented his cocktail gowns in vibrant colours and a wedding dress! This one specific fuschia definitely caught my eyes, where the model also worked it out as if she was up to some kind of award show. What is not entirely new, but I appreciate it for trying, is when the models were surrounding the wedding dress and unattached the layer of it. Such scene obviously has been taken place at McQueen with the surreal dresses play, and if I am not mistaken, Issey Miyake's.



The other girls seemed like bridemaids--with beautifully crafted dresses with little details that entertained the eyes. There were a lot of flower petals involved in making I guess (artificial ones, for sure), that heighten the romantic creme de la creme of the dresses. I was not entirely surprised, however, this wedding dress will definitely come in handy for the brides who want to party hard after their holy ceremonies :p


Bad news after seeing the two young designers presented their collection, my camera died. Luckily though, I carried with me another one, and despite of its poor quality for taking moving pictures, I still have a couple of "usable" pictures to show.

I was excited to see what Imelda Kartini will bring to the table this time. I turned up at her show in the previous Jakarta Fashion Week, and quite entertained with the drama she narrated. This time, though, she utilized earth tones to form a tough-slash-mysterious look wit plenty drapery, braided masks, and complicated cutting. It was quite notable that Imelda strives to push her boundaries further, aside from giving a structured, delicate composition like her couture design, she steps it up with military look.


Casual classic Nikicio design that is so simple and minimal, sometimes with accelerated cutting and boyish vibe, is presented on the show. Though I expect her to experiment more rather than some basic coloured jacket, blazer, and shirts, I would say that her customers will still fancy her clothes. It is just so easy to absorb, easy to throw on, and easy to mix, that I do think Nikicio has created a caste of her own. I somehow wish the designer would elevate her structured specialty and androgynous dream to deliver original, breakthrough urban look.


Lastly, Jeffry Tan pours candy colours to menswear. Ummm.. I am not so sure about those pink pants, they are not the most flattering, and paired with yellow, I think this collection is risky. I have once seen a piece of Jeffry's in an fashion-art exhibition and expected more of him. With his notable womenswear on the rise, there are still some works to do in the menswear field seeing these questionable neon on his catwalk.



I rest my case. Pictures are taken by me, unless otherwise noted.

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