SOMETHING RAD | The Story of Undercover

Much hyped, little known. I attempt to uncover Japanese cult fashion brand, Undercover.

Undercover Spring 2004 sending twins down the runway

I initially fancied Jun Takahashi's work, the designer of Undercover, in the middle of a desperate spring/summer 2014 fashion week. Among most highly commercialised, little creativity-infused shows, there was a real gem showing with a bang. Back then I didn't realise that Takahashi is no dark horse in the business (he maybe was, but I was obviously wrong) since his collection appears really fresh, almost untouched by the commercial wisdom that has long disoriented fashion industry. His word play of GODS x DOGS, GUNS x SNUG and so on reflects much of the creativity and his rebellious side.

Fall 2005-2006

Undercover itself came into inception in 1993, but it is in 2002 that the label started showing in Paris. In 2011, Takahashi took a two-year absence after a tsunami and earthquake hit his homeland, Japan. Bringing his Japanese sensibilities on the brand, Takahashi bridges couture-like treatment on board with certain wit and eccentricity no other designer has. On one side his designs remind me of Margiela's and Westwood's but on the other side it feels like a whole different world altogether. "Punk" is how the designer describes the brand--and his personal style. Shredded, deconstructed, subversive pieces are his go-to designs, in a way challenging fashion industry's resonance of everything perfectly polished.

Inside Jun Takahashi's scrapbook (from A Magazine Curated By)

There are several, if not all, collections that have catapulted Undercover to stardom. Takahashi always tickles the senses of the viewers with tantalising fashion shows. They are fascinating and eerie at times, such as the time when the model's lineup consisted of identical twins wearing similar clothes (Spring 2004) or when all models strut the catwalk with masked face (Fall 2006). Takahashi, too, addresses global issues in his collection. Take a look at his Fall 2007 creations in which he adapted NASA technology for the clothes that will stand the harsh change of climate. Even Takahashi can turn American preppy look into certain subversion by covering the models' head with latex (Fall 2008).

Undercover Fall 2006

Undercover Fall 2007

Undercover Fall 2008

Takahashi is also a runner, which is perhaps why he taps into a collaboration with renowned sports brand Nike for several installments. With the name Undercover Gyakusou he works closely with Nike's Apparel Innovation Design Team to explore the latest technology in sportswear. The Japanese designer's collaborative effort also stretches to the world of publishing, in which he guest-edits an issue of A Magazine Curated By, an insider magazine that invites brilliant names in fashion designers to curate an issue. Maison Martin Margiela, Riccardo Tisci and Yohji Yamamoto are among its impressive guest editors.

Nike x Undercover Gyakusou

The designer models his own collection in collaboration with Nike

more about Undercover: www.undercoverism.com

images: style.com, A Magazine Curated By, cotonblanc.tumblr.com, hypebeast.com

SOMETHING RAD | A Dystopian Antidote

Huxley's "Brave New World" materialises in Viktor & Rolf flagship store.

I am the type of person who gets intimidated easily. I don't know why. Especially upon entering a plush luxury brand store, where the store assistants keep staring at my non-high-end-branded attire, the sense of un-belonging hopelessly lingers. The predicament of this, of course, happens when I visit a store in my OWN country, in my OWN city. Because when I do the exact same thing, don in pretty much my regular outfit, in a country other than my own, no intimidation whatsoever happens. But we are not to discuss that now. I guess what I am trying to say is that, look at this mind blowing, non-intimidating Viktor & Rolf flagship store, people.

In the designers' interview with the ever-edgy Dazed Digital, they mention their fixation on grey--a colour that fully emblazons the brand's flagship store located in Paris. Decorated with various shades of grey (pun is not intended) and felt material, the store is born from the idea of creating a store that is not there. Thus, the architect comes out with an idea of "ghost architecture" which results in a surreal experience inside the store.

Judging from these imageries provided by the said site, it is rather apparent for me that the interior hearkens to my all-time favourite author, Aldous Huxley's much celebrated novel: "Brave New World." Taking place in AD 2540, the story unfolds a dystopian future where humans know no love, religion, history and culture but rather immerse themselves in technology and temporary escape of pain. To my eyes, this futuristic store serves as a closely perfect setting for such story to take place. There is a depth that belongs to Viktor & Rolf that could possibly translate what Huxley has in words to a tangible vision. Or is there?

SOMETHING RAD | The Statement Earrings

Each one of us must have that bad day, when everything seems to go wrong, when the sunny begets cloudy and so on (well Daniel Powter seems to know best on that note). How do you deal with such depressing period? A pair of earrings may come to the rescue. These pieces are from Baguera--the kind of statement earrings that steal the moody spotlight in the hope of turning it into a gleaming one. At least this can work for a while, don't you think?

SOMETHING RAD | Sleeping Around

I obviously covet for a quiet time outside the busy city with my loved ones, perhaps a decent time to write with (hopefully) a new pad to ease everything. Antwerp is a city I am quite familiar with but I haven't got the resources to visit (someday I will), in which an interesting travel project takes place. Called Sleeping Around, it adopts a pop-up concept for a hotel installment, utilising a 20ft recycled sea container. 

Meant to be temporal, the project is currently occupying Antwerp, Belgium sea port where the containers will later be left empty. I am not sure how much the night-stay costs since the pop up hotel only has 4 rooms, alongside a sauna container and a lounge container. It is however a slightly different, adventurous way of sleeping and travelling. What do you think?

images: sleepingaround.eu

SOMETHING RAD | A Curious Case of Men's Clothes

Although the upper slice of fashion world is talking about everything punk and everything Gatsby right now, I insist on a minimalism note (still). It entices me how men's clothes sort of complete and emphasize women's sexuality without being vulgar. A womanly adaptation of men's attire also make room for more and better alteration, such as various cutting, metal insertion, and shorter length.

Even something as simple as a pair of pants was once considered manly and rebellious. Now the steal from the guys has been extended to tailored blazer, coat, loafers, and the most basic thing you ought to have in your wardrobe: a crisp shirt. I guess the line between masculinity and femininity has become blur over the course of years. The rise of unisex clothing signals that we ought to dress beyond gender boundaries. The presented imagery toward women who wear boyish clothes also changes. A woman cannot easily be considered manly even when she is wearing oversized blazer and tapered pants. Girls can simply slip heels on and a balance between male and female element is achieved.

As for accessories, the envelope-like clutches and everything-boxy bags can also be accounted to exude certain masculine vibe, especially when they are composed in neutral colours. A complete manly look accentuates power, as man is always portrayed as the celebrated-powerful being. That got me thinking, how about the XY chromosome borrows something from the XX chromosome? Maybe we can delve into it further later...

images: i-D magazine, street style aesthetics, fash-n-chips, style.com, camille over the rainbow, studded hearts, le fashion

SOMETHING RAD | Badass Chick Always Wins

On a saccharine note of dressing and wearing your personality out, I have always eyed on "how to look like I don't care in a cool way" whenever I put together an outfit. It is not about the rebellious nature of women, it is about expressing individuality and saying goodbye to body hugging dresses. Flaunting indifference is what counts today, with comfort becomes number one factor. If you are not comfortable in your own skin and clothes, the rest will easily fall apart. Don't you agree?

My selection/inspiration to dress like a badass. Which one could you possibly try on? :D

images: Oracle Fox, All Saints via Studded Hearts, style.com Sydney's Street Style, after drk

SOMETHING RAD | It is Back

You might recall a post I wrote some time ago about the rise of fashion weeks in other areas than the big four fashion capitals, in which I mentioned a brand named Back. The edginess and slouch tingle me perfectly, leaving plenty of rooms to love their collection. This, for me, is the future of fashion, where inspiration and mood boards do not play such an important rule anymore, but rather how the clothes can define modern way of dressing. The likes of Celine, Stella McCartney, and Proenza Schouler put forward the new shape of feminine body while put aside the poetic narration. Practicality and individuality are instead celebrated.

Back lives the grunge feeling that belongs only to certain house, combining classic pieces such as oversized t-shirts, suits, and black skirts with contemporary construction and details such as metallic and fish net. My particular love is also bestowed upon their styling, resulting in a fresh take of sporty attitude. Time to dive in their archives of past collections and adopt the style.

images: www.annsofieback.com

SOMETHING RAD | Maiyet Tribe

Whenever people talk about new year and their “bigger, better, bolder” resolution, I always tend to go the other way. Don’t get me wrong, I have gone through that phase before—times when I pray extensively with hopes on New Year’s Eve yet later I come up with passion and exuberance that do not last long. Now I think the only step that makes my sense is to step back and view my life as if it is a painting. Seeing it as a perfection while examining the flaws. Is this really an art I will appreciate at the latter stage or something I wish I could re-traced?

Putting things aside, this beautiful campaign from Maiyet (this is for fall 2012, nevertheless I personally think that the imagery here is timeless and ethereal) is perhaps most fitted to let our mind wander. Subtle colours, airy feeling, just the field and I. Time to take it slow this very new year, isn't it?

Not to mention that their Spring/Summer collection is no less beautiful. Everything seems to embody the perfect summer. Precise cutting with heavy tropical inspirations define something beyond dressing. Whatever it is, I love the fact that Maiyet women are approachable, down-to-earth, but still impeccably dressed. Their taste reminds you of home. I am hence officially a fan.

all images are from www.maiyet.com

SOMETHING RAD | Spacious Living

Life that involves simplicity gives birth to self liberation, as personally for me I was sitting in my bed right now, after hours of sleep, reminiscing the previous hours I was in this beautiful island near my hometown. The same goes to the living space, where simple structure can trick the eye, because truthfully, the space is being maximized for efficiency and convenience of those who shelter. Tokyo-based architect, Keiji Ashizawa works on this residential project called House-S, one place I would gladly emigrate myself to.

Head over to his site to know more :)

SOMETHING RAD | Showcase Corner

I retreat from everything too flashy, too fashion-y because to be honest, the superficial and highly commercialized part of today's fashion kinda take their toll on me. My inspiration shifts to something more understated, something I can relate myself to. Not that I just leave everything behind, I try to craft my taste better and appreciate wider creative-cultural aspects of life while I take a small step of my own to turn the mere passion to something tangible.

The idea I pitch from browsing several beautiful, simple, and home-y interior is a showcase corner. When I have a place my own I would definitely like to arrange some items to be displayed in one strategic position of the room to get me energized and inspired. This one is from an artist-designer/illustrator's space where he constantly rearranges the items of his liking. 

This other one is from a club owner-DJ's house, it is rather messy but I like it. So simple and easy to do, even he put a drawing of his kid there. Lovely.

Even your bedroom wall can turn into a showcase space, if you allow it to.

I would also want to have a white, clean bookshelves like this one to display my current and all time reads. :)

And lastly, beautiful dresses are meant to be shown outside the closet. 

image sources: Design Sponge, Freunde von Freunden, The Selby, The Locals, The Coveteur