RUNWAY MASHUP | Lessons in Layering

It's the crazy season that is fashion week but all we have to do is to learn some lessons. Lesson number one: layering.

Prabal Gurung

Let's put aside the debate whether bloggers are worthy of front-row seats, or the discussion whether Ghesquière is preserving Marc Jacobs' legacy in Louis Vuitton. They are too complicated. Or not, because these layering lessons I get from the fall/winter shows articulate certain dimension to dressing for the cold. I am thoroughly aware of the resistance to layer for some people, mainly because bulky clothing never looks good on anyone. Not to mention that it takes some skills to layer clothes. In other words, layers can make people uncomfortable.

In Prabal Gurung, the only show from NYFW I am blown away by (I am pretty sure that this is a new grammatical structure I have so, pardon), the layer is the high note. Thanks to the cold hands of both the designer and the stylist, dresses with origami-like ends are winter-ready when paired with thick knits. The Nepal-inspired collection also introduces us to a new way of wearing knitted shawl: by knotting it (see the pun?).

Burberry Prorsum - Paul Smith

A lesson in layering presented by Burberry Prorsum and Paul Smith is lectured in different classroom, though. This is one of my toughest subjects, since mixing pattern apparently requires a Mathematics-equivalent skills. While Burberry still includes ladylike dress in its equation, Paul Smith rules it out completely. Picking a neutral--black in case of Burberry and grey in case of Paul Smith--seems like a salient answer to the game of pattern and colour mixing.

Opening Ceremony - Topshop Unique

The last lesson in layering I've got from fashion week so far includes quirky girls in boots, but we obviously digress because the layered sweatshirt is the one that is supposed to steal the limelight. However it is worth to discuss the fact that asymmetric layering in Opening Ceremony seems like a toughened look of Prabal Gurung's and the dress in Topshop Unique appears vaguely similar with Burberry. So what can we infer from this lesson in layering? 

images are all from style.com

RESORT MASHUP | Flowery Season

Despite the existential time distance between where we are now (entering Fall) and the season where we can really pull off a resort look, these printed floral-slash-hawaiian-slash-tropical vaganza cannot simply slip one's mind. The designers cook them season after season, bringing the whole colours and print variations, alongside innovative cutting to the plate. Shall we start dining in tropical mood now?

Are you more to the side of the colour burst print or something utterly calming and rather monochromatic like this one? 

images belong to style.com

RUNWAY MASHUP | Resort Begins

It's always summer in Jakarta (although for the past few days, rain has become our regular guest), so the notion of cruise can always sneak into my mind and tickle me to experiment with my wardrobe. Honestly, I have slowly directed my taste to something simpler for dressing (read: skinny pants meets loose shirt), thus flipping over style.com religiously is no longer in the top priority. I could care less about the ongoing trend and instead looking for shapes, textures, and styles that WORK for me.

As the designers are rushing to preview their newest resort installment, I am mesmerized by a handful of new approaches they employ. Dior has undoubtedly topped the pack, spelling the word future vigorously through immaculate techniques and clear vision for the once problematic house. Meanwhile DKNY interprets the trend differently; I think they are using the resort collection as a teaser for the full Spring/Summer 2014 installment. A sweet surprise is delivered by Gucci after Frida Gianini gave birth, a range of perfectly slouchy assemble is ready to steal the spotlight of the pre-season.

Christian Dior

Putting my initial skepticism toward Raf Simons who was appointed to helm Dior after dramatic departure of Galliano aside, the Belgian-born designer hit it, season after season. Interestingly, I do think that he does even better in pre-season, such as this resort one, and also couture. The industry has also seemed to grow deep liking for his masterful touch, for every battle he has with Slimane, Simons is the one adding his points. With never ending battle the press put between the helm at Saint Laurent and Dior, these two are taking their approaches further apart. The rebellious nature of Slimane is unbearable, but Simons is the engineer. He definitely steers the house to his aesthetic wisdom--making beautiful clothes for women who save a "ladylike" stamp in their bag.

This resort collection is no exception. Splurge of beautiful colours unendingly takes turn on the runway, with unusual silhouette such as the skirt over pants styling we are starting to see on the street. His adaptation is remarkably elegant, still edgy without degrading the feminine essence in it. Zipper and metal insertion later finish the whole look, perfecting modernity that breathes with the collection. And we should not even start with the shoes. Graceful pointy shoes that come season after season will never miss that lust-worthy tag. Just ample colours and variations of straps make everything look even better.

DKNY

Should someone think about how Donna Karan once described her label as accessible and contemporary, they should never miss how she has evolved into a respectable designer with improving expertise in ready to wear. Her resort collection is basically the kind of style I have been lusting these times--shirt, pants, blazer, and pointy shoes. I seriously think those shoes will be the champion on various blogs and are probably eyed by Zara as their inspiration. The sporty touch on high fashion has undeniably been echoed everywhere and although these are not entirely a breakthrough, DKNY manages to re-live the not-so-fashionable 90s period to a very respectable 2014. An element that should not be missed is the sequin, in silver and gold, making everything party-ready and of course, striking. A very intriguing resort, I shall say.

Gucci

Oh Frida. Even though an image of a Gucci woman, this body-conscious lady who is constantly on the search for pieces that complement her curves, will never really leave me, Frida Gianini raises the bar quite high this time. She steps out of her usual comfort zone that involves tons of Italian inspiration with seductive appeal and introduces new silhouette we usually stay away from: slouch. Strangely enough (or impressively enough, I should say) the slouch version of Frida for Gucci's resort is not something unfit, it is something desirable. A warm palette of cream, maroon, and mustard can easily win over the buyers and editors, meanwhile the silk pants will sneak in everyone's wardrobe as a staple item at ease. I also notice the small chunky heels and remember my own pairs that are super comfortable and versatile. I am most definitely Team Frida.

images are from style.com

RUNWAY MASHUP | Resort Story

Though I still ponder what Rousteing will infuse to Balmain for the resort collection, I hit the new post button pretty easily this time. Resort collection is the one I anticipate the most, the one without fuzzy runways and hoards of bloggers jamming the show. I somehow feel a sense of intimacy when a designer launches his/her resort line ups, simple, understated yet raw-ly edgy at the same time. They do restore my faith in dressing elegantly and effortlessly, as presented in these following looks I fall in love with (at the first time).

Architectural shape has taken the "spotlight" not so secretly, and the outerwear has transformed from the dark, earthy tone the past fall season to something a bit pale with brilliant cutting for our next summer. Proenza Schouler, as always, takes womanly silhouette a step further, while the BCBG number in the left side looks fancy enough for summer extravaganza (should you have any).

Geometric graphic in one covered outfit seems to be a solid choice for the sizzling summer. I wonder whether the designers prepare the clothes for rainy summer or simply are still smitten by the architectural wonder they are inspired with last fall. Picture these two jackets from Burberry and Suno worn with your shredded denim shorts and worn-out sneakers. I vote for yes.

I am the one who hinders myself from wearing the combination of black and white by infusing some colours to the overall look, but Theyskens' Theory and Proenza Schouler definitely has defined laid back chic in another dimension. Loose fit kinda puts the look together, makes me want to peruse the racks to find perfect black leather-y pants. :D

Fancy shorts are still in, yeay! I favor shorts because they are super easy to mix and as my quest to grab some printed shorts has not yet succeeded, guess I can still buy some time to proceed. BCBG and Band of Outsiders show some dreamy resort moves in these shorts. 

I'll keep an eye on Balmain and Givenchy now, until then lovelies! Pictures are, as always, from the prominent style.com.

NYFW MASHUP: Twisted Classic

This is a story of a girl. She is not afraid to speak up her mind, ready to explore new territory, and keen to details. The girl once dreamed that she can fly to her selected fashion shows, write review of each, share her thoughts and vision to the creative professionals, and pour her inspiration to action. When it comes to fashion, she is all about crisp silhouette and precise cutting. For fall, she would pick conventional colours but expect her to sheer in her elegance. The subtle mix of patterns is her wardrobe next pick--along with tailored pants, white "superhero" cape, boxy leather jacket, pointy heels, strapped sandals, and black boots. Welcome to her (partly) imaginary wardrobe.

images are from style.com

from upper left clockwise: Suno, The Row, Theyskens' Theory, 3.1 Phillip Lim.

ON RADAR: A Cue from NYFW

Though so far I still perceive the Pre-Fall collection is way more interesting rather than the actual Fall runway (see here and here), I still believe that the gloomy economy will urge the designer to produce something outrageous and memorable whilst there are still hundreds of both established and emerging brands to present. The early trend cue I observe from some of the previous catwalks in New York gratifies a pair of interesting notes, aside from the shapeless coat and leather touch. A kind additional note for you, these are what I actually want to wear should I am given a chance to feel the breeze of fall.

//FURRY SWEATER

Behold cats, the women are stealing your furs. Kidding. I firmly believe these are no cat furs, but the sweaters do look cozy yet fuzzy, especially because these two takes from DKNY and Thakoon pair the fur with skirts. I like these better rather than the fur shrugs since it still covers the upper body well without make you feel like a madame. I am still not sure however, if PETA activists approve--if only these are synthetic.

//RED HUED PATTERN

Featuring the intriguing spider web prints in the Pre-Fall Collection, Helmut Lang presents yet another tough quirky look with all the greatness of red in one. Left, the velvet jacket, draping tops, printed pants and boots, those fiery lava definitely rules. Right, the tuxedo styled suits made of red velvet from Kevork Kiledjian reigns. Fall has never looked so angry hungry (talking about red velvet cupcakes...).

//DARK WRAP

Yes, there are still some more to love from Helmut Lang. These two are the insinuated wrap that I am talking about. Layering at its finest, the usual use of neutrals keep the fall look chic and badass at the same time. Continuing the immaculate spider web inspired pattern, now it is manifested in knits. Additionally, both neck shrugs look warm, with a polished thigh high boots and wide leather black belt, all in dark tones.

//TOMBOY RESEMBLANCE

Proclaiming myself as a tomboy would not hold true, but with those hands in the pocket, lazy eyes stare, and more importantly, classic blazer/coat shape, I cannot just ignore. The only throw I like from Rachel Zoe, displayed left, add some length to the suit look alike, makes it more of a trench. The fedora and black boots simply balance the gray take, make it utterly chic. Meanwhile in Altuzarra, navy and black are paired, with sincere cargo pants and embellished sweater, finished up with glossy black booties. Tomboy at its finest, indeed.

BONUS:

I do not even know how to describe these two. Blazer? Check. Fur? Check. Skirt? Check. That left look fulfills my imagination of feminine, classic, yet unexpected neutral coordinated outfit. The right look proves that sweater, white shirt, and black pants are not boring, are not librarian-ish. Altuzarra owns it.

images are from style.com and The Cut Blog

P.S: I apologize for the rather gloomy tone, am going through some critical phase at the moment...

PRE-FALL MASHUP: Something Straightforward

So some designers have released their small collections to have customers wanting more clothes even before the sun in summer sets. They name it pre-fall, but, hey, we all always love something new right? At some point, I wonder how they cope with all the hectic design and production schedule, while somehow balancing the creative and commercial creation. I have previously reviewed some brands whose pre-fall collections are absolutely wearable yet stark in either details, cutting, or silhouette. This time, the second batch offers us something equally straightforwardly lovable.

Phillip Lim brings out superheroes, in literal manifestation, within the collection. I would have never thought that such prints--that usually appear in kids' school supplies and play-date shirts, can make it to the runway. The leather skirt and blazer are a win (beside that playful clutch, you know how much I love clutch :p)

Alexander Wang, as lately, has been into sporty look--especially the jackets and anoraks, therefore I am quite surprised that within that awkward silhouette, which I am not really into, I found sheer-embroidered pieces and a body-hugging dress. The dress drapery has been going on my mind lately, so this is my ultimate favourite of the whole collections :) That embroidered fabric is a total eye candy and spice the whole rather boring collection perfectly.

Band of Outsiders, the newcomer, on the other hand, pretty much translates 1979 Manhattan into the brand overall laid back chic aura. Talking about 70s, it will definitely involve some velvet going on, which is for me, interesting to see, but unflattering to wear. However, the cutting is impeccable, the minimalism with a twist is my absolute style and this brand so far has excelled in bringing simple pieces alive.

images are from vogue.com

P.S. That BOY shirt (or boys?) look so vintage-fun! Want want want (consumerism alert).

Pre-Fall Mashup: Sweet vs. Badass

Although Fall 2012 seems like around less than a year away (we still have Spring and Summer to enjoy in between), I find that the Pre-Fall collections this time offers something more than just a pre. The fact that many designers explore their inspiration further and articulate it really well throughout the collection excites me. My favourite collections are Thakoon and Helmut Lang, neither have I expected such a neat elaboration of the concept nor standout pieces, but these two have definitely won my heart.

Thakoon//Sweet
The designer comes up this time with sweet, warm tone that is well executed in each piece. I particularly love the wool (ball of wool?) accent on the pockets, skirt layers, and even jackets that makes them look so warm yet chic at the same time. The trench coats and blazers have simple, minimal structure with sweet little details, while Thakoon also sprays some lined prints on the dresses and coats, just the right amount. My favourite pieces will be the white shirt dress with cable knitted sleeves and pockets, and the cozy-looking mini skirt with wool layers. I can't wait to see the upcoming Fall collection following these sweet galore of coziness!

Helmut Lang//Badass
On another pole, duo Nicole and Michael Colovos come out with dark palettes that is the signature colour of the house. They acquire the inspiration from spider webs, how each species spins differently in such various intricate patterns. The translation comes out as prints on the tops, pants, and skirts, being accentuated with the cutting play. I can feel the contemporary yet classic aura for every look, and another reason why I love this collection is a pop of neon that twists the gloomy shades in an interesting way. My favourite pieces are the spider tops, neon pants, and that flowing skirt with high slit (!), as well as their signature pieces--structured blazers and jackets.

images are from Style.com

Spring-Summer Mashup: whites and cremes

I was looking (again) at some of the past fashion weeks Spring Summer 2012 Collection and decided to pick some similar details that involves whites and cremes. And these are what I love to see more the next season...

Both clutches are from Valentino and do you notice that both have studs on them? Those Valentino studs can really add edginess to the sweetness and transparency of both clutches, making them way more wearable, not only for nights but also days.

So I am officially obsessed with white shoes! The left one with that worth-to-die-for metal is from Louis Vuitton and the right one is from Alexander Wang. Both are pointy, which will definitely make the feet look longer yet sexier and sweet-edgy at the same time. Yes, yes, yes!

And these are some nice inspirations to mix edginess and sweetness. Balmain presents white shirt with nicely carved mini leather skirt, McQueen with the fur-like detailing and white crisp collar, and Valentino mixes organza with some vintage-y accessories. Not really something new, but it is still nice to keep it clean but still rocking it at the same time.


images are from style.com

Spring-Summer Mashup: 5x4

Been neglecting (again) the blog for a (long) while, I make small selections of best collections from the Spring/Summer 2012 Fashion Weeks. Don't get it wrong, best is to me, the wearable yet edgy ones. I do not really throw myself on and on about cutting perfection or sublime materials that may be involved. I admire those who stick to the style and do not go overboard with excessive use of clothes. You know, sometimes simple is better ;)


Costume National

The colour sneak peaks combined with black and white really caught my eyes. Costume National is not a brand I have admired ever since, but this collection turns out brilliant! I love the strappy sandals and shoes, the lightness of the fabric, and the genius strap in the arms. All is not too over-the-top but still eye catching at the same time.


Isabel Marant

As one of the most-hailed brand in the fashion industry, this spring summer collection gives a tribal vibe in the Marant-way. What I really dig from the collection is the parka(!!) and of course the unexpected mix of patterns. I have to admit that I was skeptical at the first time since I do not really into all the Marant-hype but those (another) strappy sandals, genius knits, and structured jacket are a win.


Lanvin

Alber Elbaz always knows how to dress a woman. His collection this time is not really colourful as I expected (hint: SS 2011), but his signature cuts are still mind-blowing. The monochromatic palette and sheerness of femininity in every piece make Lanvin one top notch when women want to be elegant. I spot another strap on the ankles (I guess these will make a huge trend, won't they?) and similar sheer dress from the previous season. Not much of an innovation, but still loveable in many ways.


Theyskens' Theory

If I could choose to live in one designer's wardrobe for my next year Spring/Summer, Theyskens' Theory is THE one. With those faded jeans, creme blazers, knits, and pastel tops, dressing will be fun! The pieces are totally versatile, for day and night, feminine or boyish. I can picture myself playing with them mixing and matching with those junks in my closet (I WISH! :p)


Topshop Unique

The name "unique" after "Topshop" should signal you something about the brand. This Egypt-inspired collection is one of the creative-mind-tickling-in-a-good-way kind of collection. I totally love the unusual approach of dressing with the patterned dresses and touch of gold here and there (hint: the HAIR!). Shoes are also great, and metallic short shorts can give a more sassy touch to the sporty jacket. Nailed it, I should say.


images are from style.com